Dart and Seam Variations for Dresses
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This article shows how darts can be manipulated or removed with the help of panel seams. All options are based on the basic dress block, but it also works with additional width.
You can find the full instruction in the e-dossier Pattern Making Darts and Seam Variations for Dresses.
Variation 1
Template: Basic Dress Block
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing N. Kühner)
Closing Amounts and Design Development
1 Mark the finished length 50 cm below the waist. Draw a vertical line from the front armhole notch to the hipline. Transfer the front waist
dart intake to this line and measure the amount to the left. Cut through the front pattern from the side seam along the hipline and the waistline.
Draw a line from 2 cm above the front armhole notch to the bust point. Draw a horizontal line from the bust point to the centre front.
2 Cut and close the intake at the waist and blend the sideseam. Taper the side seam 1 cm at the hem. Open the armhole 1 cm and relocate the
remaining bust dart intake temporarily to the centre front. Lower the neckline 1 cm at the shoulder and at the centre front. Lengthen the shoulder 8 cm and square down 1.5 cm. Lower the armhole 3 cm.
Dart Manipulation and Completion
3 Rotate the bust dart back to the shoulder. Extend the horizontal cutting line from the bust point 4 cm to the right. Draw the dart legs to the extended line. Mark the halfway point between the centre front and the bust point. Measure 11.5 cm from the overarm seam along the sleeve hem. Divide the front neckline in four equal parts. Draw three cutting lines for the neckline darts as shown in the Illustration.
4 Close the bust dart and open the cutting lines 2 cm each. Remove the extra length at the neckline. Shorten the darts 2 cm.
Finished Pattern Pieces
5 Copy all pattern pieces. Draw the dart hoods. Mark the grainline.
Variation 2
Template: Basic Dress Block
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing N. Kühner)
Variation 3
Template: Basic Dress Block
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing N. Kühner)
Variation 4
Template: Basic Dress Block
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing N. Kühner)
Variation 5
Template: Basic Dress Block
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing N. Kühner)
You can find many more instructions on pattern construction and patterns for sewing women’s clothing in our online shop.