Collar Shapes for Dresses and Blouses
Dresses, tops and blouses with elegant collars are a must-have in every wardrobe. Whether for festive occasions or in the office: with a shirt blouse dress or a blouse with lapel collar you are always well dressed. Here you will find simple instructions on how to construct the pattern.
This article covers the most important collar types. The basic collar constructions are the foundation for a variety of new collar designs. Only small changes in Width, shape, stand and roll are necessary to develop a Whole new look. The fit of each collar should be examined carefully on the dress form. Cut the collar out of paper or muslin and pin it on the neckline of the dress form. Compare the collar shape with the design. Check the Width of the collar edge and the fit around the neck.
This article is an excerpt from the book Patternmaking Dresses and Blouses. The instructions for the pattern construction of all shown fashion drawings can be found in this book.
Drawing pattern for collar
First the Neckline, then the Collar
- The neckline must be perfectly shaped before the collar can be drafted. First, draw the size and shape of the neckline. Lower the neckline. The necessary amount depends on the desired type of collar. For most types of standard collars the neckline is lowered 0 — 1.5 cm at the shoulder and 0 — 0.7 cm at the centre back (approximately half of the amount at the shoulder). How much the neckline is lowered at the centre front, depends on the design and can be more or less than at the shoulder or the same amount. Join the front and back pattern at the shoulder seam to blend the neckline.
One-Piece Shirt Collar
- The neckline can be lowered up to 1 cm at the shoulder for the shirt collar. On a horizontal guideline, measure the length of the lowered neckline to the left and add 1.5 — 2 cm overlap to the left. On a vertical line, measure 1.5 — 2 cm upward for the collar roll at the centre back. Draw the curve for the collar line. Mark the roll line of the collar and the collar Width at the centre back. Plot the collar shape according to the illustration. Compare the lengths of the collar line and the neckline and adjust the collar length at the centre back if necessary.
Two-Piece Shirt Collar
How to construct a two-piece collar of this kind you can learn in the book Patternmaking for Dresses and Blusen.
Convertible Collar Drafted on the Angle Construction
- A convertible collar can be drafted separately on a vertical and horizontal guideline or directly onto the front and back neckline. Draft the convertible collar on a horizontal and vertical guideline for smaller and more close-fitting collars Which can be worn unbuttoned. For a Wider collar shape and a lower neckline, plot the convertible collar directly onto the joined front and back pattern. The collar construction on the neckline assures the correct length at the collar edge required for a Wide collar to fit over the front and back. The construction on the perpendicular lines as shown here can be only used for smaller collars and closefitting necklines. The length at the outer collar edge is determined by the amount of rise at the centre back.
- The convertible collar construction can be used for a buttoned or unbuttoned collar depending on the rise at the centre back and hence the collar length at the outer edge. A collar that is worn open and standing at the centre back requires little outer length. Draft the collar on a horizontal and vertical line as shown in the illustration.
- The illustration shows the comparison of the convertible collar construction With different amounts of rise at the centre back (3 cm, 6 cm, and 9 cm) and the result of the different outer collar lengths. A higher centre back results in a longer collar edge and therefore a more flat and less standing collar. Another factor is the collar Width as a Wider collar requires more length at the outer edge to fit around the front and back and over the shoulders.
In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of for different evening dresses.
Further instructions for pattern construction and finished patterns for sewing dresses and blouses with great collars can be found in our online shop.