Pattern for Business Jackets
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You can find the full article in the Rundschau for women 4.2010.
Collarless Jacket
Basic Pattern: Basic jacket block
Front and Back Pattern
Use a basic jacket pattern in size 40 as a foundation. Mark the jacket length 14 cm below the waist line. Draw the centre back straight for cutting the jacket back on the fabric fold. Draw the hemline perpendicular to the new centre back. Open the front armhole 1.5 cm. Leave the intake of the shoulder dart in the back armhole. Relocate the bust dart temporarily to the centre front. Lower the neckline 2 cm at the shoulder of the front and back pattern.
Lower the neckline 2.5 cm at the centre front. Lower the back neckline 0.7 cm at the centre back and draw the new neckline perpendicular to centre back. Lower the front and back armhole 2 cm and extend the side seam 1 cm. Lower the sleeve seams 1/2 to 2/3 of the armhole amount. From these points draw short perpendicular lines. The pattern development from the combined bodice and sleeve pieces gives the relaxed sleeve sufficient ease for comfortable movement.
Bodice/Sleeve Combined Front and Back Pattern
Front Pattern: Place the front sleeve on the front pattern with 1 cm distance between the armhole notches. Turn and open the front sleeve around 1.5 cm. Draft an arc with pivot point Z over the lowered armhole. Draw the lowered armhole curve. Mark the lowered sleeve line at the intersection with the arc. Draw the lowered sleeve line and the new sleeve seam.
Back Pattern: Transfer the armhole extension to the back sleeve. Draft an arc with pivot point Z approximately 0 – 1 cm below the lowered back armhole. Place the back sleeve on the back shoulder line touching the arc with the lowered and extended sleeve seam corner. Draw the lowered armhole curve on the back pattern and on the sleeve piece. Reduce the shoulder width 1 cm on the front and back pattern. Draw the new armhole curves as illustrated. Draft the yoke lines on the front and back pattern. Draw the styleline on the back pattern as shown in the illustration. Draw the asymmetrical zipper on the mirrored front pattern (see illustration 2).
Front Pattern
Relocate the shifted bust dart back to the shoulder seam. Draw the front waist dart 2 cm to the side. Mark the welt pocket. Reflect the front
pattern over the centre front and draw the asymmetrical zipper as well as the overlap and underlap.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Separate all pattern pieces and complete all overlapping sections. Cut through the pocket line on the front pattern. Close the bust dart and
spread the waist dart above the pocket line. Close the waist dart below the pocket line. Blend the hemline. Copy the front and back facing pieces. Shorten the sleeve dart and insert zipper. Blend all seam lines. Mark the grainline.
Raglan Jacket
Basic Pattern: Basic jacket block
Stretch-Blazer
Basic Pattern: Basic jacket block
