Grading a Cape Pattern
Deutsch
Enlarge the pattern of a Cape with Hood and Collar from Size 38 to Size 46
This article shows the grading of a cape with a hood and collar from size 38 to size 46. You find many other grading-instructions in our book Grading Women & Kids
The Cape pattern is graded in the same way as the jacket pattern and the coat pattern. The grading increments can be found in table 3. The sideseams are graded parallel from the scye depth downwards. The grading increment for the side is ½ of the scye width increment. Use the total scye width increment for a greater grading increment. Distribute the back width and the chest width grading increments evenly for a cape pattern without bust dart. Otherwise use the standard grading increments for the back width and the chest width for a cape pattern with bust dart.
This reference book focusses on the special subject of increasing and decreasing patterns in size according to the M. Müller & Sohn system – also known as GRADING.
Back Pattern
Sizes 40, 42 and 44 are skipped when the grading from size 38 to size 46.
1–2 Length increment 24 mm. The length can be graded depending on the design (here 6 mm per size). The total cape length changed around 10 mm.
3–4 Back waist length/waistline relocation 8 mm. The waistline relocation is only a visual guide for grading this pattern.
5–6 Scye depth increment: 16 mm. The amount is measured vertically in extension of the centre back and neck point.
6–7 Back width increment: 20 mm. Measure the back width increment parallel to the centre back.
6–8 Neck point: 12 mm. Back width increment 20 mm minus neck width increment 8 mm = 12 mm. Measure the neck point increment to the right and draw the new neckline using the basic pattern as a template.
Back shoulder increment
Place the basic pattern on point 8 parallel to the centre back and mark the endpoint of the shoulder as point 9 in preparation for the shoulder grading.
9–10 Shoulder increment: 8 mm. Lengthen the shoulder line to the left. Transfer the mark distance “m” later to the front pattern.
11-12 ½ of the scye width increment: 14 mm Measure the ½-scye-width increment from the notch to the left and draw the new sideseam parallel to the basic sideseam.
Front Pattern
1–2 and 3–4 Shift the waistline and lengthen the pattern according to the back pattern. Mark the buttonhole positions.
2–6 Chest width increment 32 mm. Measure the chest width increment parallel to the centre front.
7-8 Front waist length increment: 32 mm. Measure the front waist length increment vertically upward.
8–9 Front neck point: 24 mm. Chest width increment 32 mm minus neck width increment 8 mm = 24 mm.
10 Increment for the neckline = 28 mm. Front waist length increment 32 mm minus ½ neck width increment 4 mm = 28 mm.
11–12 ½ of the scye width increment: 14 mm.
Measure the ½-scye-width increment from the notch to the right and draw the new sideseam from point 12 parallel to the basic sideseam.
Drawing Template for the Neckline
It is useful to make a template to be able to draw the new neckline. Trace a copy of the basic block neckline and shoulder.
9a-10a 1 ½ neck width increment: 12 mm. Measure 12 mm vertically upward from the neck point. Measure the lowered neckline on the drawing template 2a (m) and transfer this length to the front pattern (ü).
Front shoulder increment
14 ½ chest width increment: 16 mm. Measure this amount back towards the front pattern at waistline height. Place the basic block as a drawing template with the centre front on point 14 and with the neck point (point 7) touching point 9. Mark the front bust dart leg as a dashed line (point 5).
15-16 Neck width increment: 8 mm. Measure 8 mm along the shoulder to the right.
17-18 Bust point increment: 16 mm. Chest width increment 32 mm minus bust increment 16 mm.
Measure the bust point increment to the right and draw the front dart leg parallel to the basic block.
19-20 Armhole increment 14.4 mm. Measure the armhole increment from the shoulder point upwards.
12-20 Measure distance (m) on the back pattern and transfer this amount to the front pattern (ü).
20-21 Measure the distance between point 18 and point 16. Draw a circular arc with pivot point 18 to the right.
Place the drawing template on the shoulder with point 19 touching point 20. Turn the drawing template so that the right dart leg meets the circular arc (point 21). Draw the new shoulder from point 21 to point 20. Draw the new dart leg from point 21 to point 18.
22-24 Pocket entry increment = same as neck width increment = 8 mm. The pocket entry can be graded as preferred. The pocket entry can also remain unchanged or only graded for certain sizes.
Collar
The total collar increment is 20 mm.
1–2 1 ½ Neck width increment = 12 mm. Lengthen the collar parallel to the front. Use the basic collar pattern as a drawing template to complete the collar shape.
3–4 Neck width increment = 8 mm. Add 8 mm parallel to the centre back.
Hood
Use the same increments as for the collar.
1–2 1 ½ Neck width increment = 12 mm. Lengthen the collar parallel to the front. Use the basic collar pattern as a drawing template to complete the collar shape.
3–4 Neck width increment = 8 mm. Add 8 mm parallel to the centre back and to the hood height.
Draw the hood shape using the basic template.
Many more pattern instructions and patterns for sewing can be found in our online shop.
