(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)
“Beauties of the night” (Belles de Nuit) is the name of a french-italian motion picture comedy directed by René Clair but also the name of a flower, which blooms after sunset. Using this pattern-construction, it depends on the choice of the material whether the dress becomes a negligee or an evening-gown. The borders are blurred.(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)
Gown with Lace Inserts
Template: Basic Body in Size 40 (DR 2/15, page 20)
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)
Mark the length 106 cm below the waist. Mark the bridge at the centre front 3 cm below the dart and 0.5 cm wide. Draw the underwire seam up to the dart according to the illustration. Draw the back part of the underwire seam from the dart to 1.5 cm beside the front pitch line. Mark the cup height 9 cm above the bust point. Measure 8.5 cm from the bust Point towards the centre front for the cup width at the front dart.
Draw the new armhole 2 cm parallel to the front armhole curve. Mark the Cup height at the armhole 7 cm above the underwire seam. Mark 1 cm more intake at the left bust dart leg. Close the bust dart temporarily and draw the Cup nicely shaped as shown in the illustration. Lower the back armhole 2 cm and draw the back neckline perpendicular to the centre back. Mark the lace insert 10 cm below the bridge and 5 cm above the hip line.
Lower Side Panel
Copy the lower side panel on the front and back pattern (front panel shown here). Slash and spread the pattern pieces 5 cm each cutting line. Blend the seam lines. Draw two circular arcs with pivot point at Z1 and Z2. Extend the hem 10 cm at each circular arc.
Measure the distance from the cup and from the back style line to the shoulder (m1 and m2). Draw two vertical lines according to These measurements (ü1 und ü2). Square out to the side 14 cm and measure 3 cm downward. Draw the front shoulder strap 3 cm wide and the back shoulder strap 4 cm wide at the lower edge. Complete the shoulder strap patterns as shown in the illustration. Mark three cutting lines evenly spaced on the front and back strap pattern.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Copy all pattern pieces. Slash and spread the strap pieces 1 cm at the lower edge and 2 cm each cutting line at the shoulder. The extra width can be either gathered or pleated. Close the dart on the cup pattern. Blend the seam lines. Attach the cups to the 1 cm wide bridge. Mark the grainlines.
Long Corset Dress with Hip Yoke
Template: Basic Body in Size 40 (DR 2/15, page 20)(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)
Gown with Inverted Pleats(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)