Lapels drafted on the front and back pattern
Lapel and shawl collars are mostly drafted on the break line. But when the lapel will get a lager collar width or a hollowed neckline the pattern construction should be drafted directly on the joined front and back pattern.
When is a lapel or shawl collar drafted on the joined front and back pattern?
For lapel and shawl collars with 7 cm or more collar fall at the centre back.
For necklines that are lowered more than 1 cm at the shoulder.
For lapel collars with a hollowed neckline.
For collars that are designed for a stylized neckline (e.g. square neckline)
Pattern construction for lapels drafted on the break line. you will find in the article > Lapel drafted on the break line
Instructions for Pattern Construction of Ladies' Fashion
This and other collar constructions can be found in the reference book Metric Patternmaking for Jackets & Coats
Pattern constructions for different lapels on a ladies jacket
Wide lapel collar
The construction of this wide lapel collar is shown in detailed step-by-step illustrations. It is the basis for all other wide lapel and shawl collars that are drafted directly on the joined front and back pattern.
Lower the neckline 0.5 – 1.5 cm at the shoulder. Draw the overlap for the buttonstand and mark the button positions. Mark the break point of the lapel (point P ) 0 – 1 cm above the upper button. Draw a circular arc from the lowered neckline to the left with pivot point P . Measure 2 – 2.5 cm twice for the collar stand on the circular arc; results in point B . Measure 0.5 – 0.7 cm to the right from each point (for wide collars 0.7 cm) and draw straight lines to point P . The right line is the break line and the left line is called the A -line. Draw the front neckline curves from the circular arc to the straight lines (approx. 4 – 6 cm below the circular arc) Plot the desired lapel shape in the front pattern and extend the gore line to the A -line. Mirror the lapel at the break line (fold the pattern paper at the break line, transfer the outline of the lapel and unfold the pattern paper). Lengthen the left hand gore line to the right as shown in the picture. Draw the neckline.
Lower the back neckline at the shoulder the same amount as at the front and at the centre back half the amount. Lengthen the centre back upward and measure 2.5 – 3 cm twice for the back collar stand (approx. 0.5 cm more than at the shoulder). Draw a parallel line to the centre back from the new neck point upward and measure 2 – 2.5 cm twice for the collar
Outline the collar shape at the front pattern. Mark point D at the shoulder seam (collar width). Put the back pattern on the front pattern with the collar stands and the shoulder lines touching. Then turn the back pattern so that point C is 0.5 – 1 cm away from point B (for sufficient length at the neckline of the collar). In addition, the back and front shoulder seams overlap 0.5 – 1 cm at point D (collar width). The distance B-C affects the length of the collar line. The overlap at point D affects the length of the outer collar edge. The amount required depends on the collar width. With increasing width, more length is needed. A very wide collar can be drafted without an overlap of the shoulder seams or even with a gap between the front and back shoulder (see figure 106). It is also important to adjust the shoulder seams for shoulder pads before the collar is drafted since accommodating shoulder pads requires more length at the outer edge of the collar (see figure 106). Draw the roll line to the lapel break. Select the back width of the collar appropriately for a well balanced collar shape.
Trace a copy of the collar. Draw the seam line for the front facing in the front pattern and trace a copy of the front facing. Add the necessary roll width to the front facing and the top collar
Remeasurement of the pattern constructions
All pattern constructions drafted on white background can be measured with a ruler in scale 1:6. Illustrations with pattern pieces on black background cannot be measured since they are shown in a smaller scale.
Wide shawl collar
Many more instructions for pattern construction and finished patterns for blazers can be found in our online shop.