Product: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.

Bomber Jackets Pattern Construction

Bomber Jackets on Runway
The jacket classic: new interpreted by designers. Photo: Catwalkpix

Bomber jackets were originally designed as functional garments and adapted in the past by different groups that projected not always the best image. Now Bomber jackets are back, and we experience a fashionable revival with many creative style variations. We show three designs with different details and collar variations. Finish the Bomber jacket with light flowing fabrics for the summer or as fall jacket quilted with wool liner.

technische Zeichnungen von drei verschiedenen Bomberjacken(Photo Credit: Draft & engineering drawings : A. Sextl)

In the issue “Rundschau für Herrenmode und Schnitt-Technik 9 / 10.2018” you will find all the jackets shown here as well as a basic block pattern of a bomber jacket.

 

Blouson Jacket with Stand-Up Collar

Template: Basic Bomber Jacket Block, Size 50

Blouson mit Stehkragen

  • Stand-up collar with collar flap
  • Visible Zipper
  • Front yokes with flap pockets
  • Side welt pockets
  • Back yoke with pleat
  • Two-piece sleeve
  • Cuffs with Velcro
  • Knit waistband

Schnittkonstruktion Ärmelschnitt von der Bomberjacke mit Stehkragen

1 Design Pattern

Lower the neckline 0.5 cm at the centre back, 0.8 cm at the shoulder and 1.5 cm at the centre front. Draw the new neckline on the front and back pattern. Shorten the hem 6 cm. Trim the centre front around half of the zipper width (here 7 mm). Blend the centre front transition at the chest line. Mark the waistband corner 6 cm wide at the front and copy the pattern piece. Draw the centre back straight for cutting on the fabric fold. Draw the new centre back perpendicular to the neckline straight down and draw the back hemline perpendicular to the new centre back.

The back pattern gets wider at the centre back. Measure the distance from the back armhole notch to the upper sleeve seam and transfer this amount to the back armhole for the yoke construction. Draw a guideline from this point perpendicular to the new centre back. Mark the yoke line 4 cm parallel below the guideline. Draw the back panel seam at right angles to the waistline as shown in the illustration. The added width can be removed at the back panel seam if wished. Draw the back panel seam nicely shaped.

Draw the front panel seam and the front welt pocket as shown. Mark the front yoke and draw the pocket flap. Shift the shoulder seam 5 cm to the front. Mark the waistband 6 cm wide. Measure the seam length and shorten the pattern piece for the waistband according to the stretch factor for the knit material. Mark the grainline along the fabric fold at the centre back and perpendicular to the front waistline.

 

Rückenteil von der Bomberjacke mit Stehkragen

2 Completion Back Pattern

Separate the back yoke from the back pattern and add 4 cm underlap to the back pattern for the yoke pleat. Mirror the guideline for the yoke stitching line over the fold line. Mirror the armhole and the centre back for the pleat fold. Copy the front shoulder piece for the shifted shoulder seam and place the pattern piece on the back shoulder seam. Blend the armhole curve.

 

Stehkragen von der Bomberjacke3 COLLAR

Measure the lowered neckline on the front and back pattern. Draw the collar on a horizontal line. Measure ½ neckline width to the left and square up 0.5 cm at the centre front and 1 cm at the centre back. Divide the baseline in thirds and draw the collar seam as shown. Mark the collar 7 cm wide at the centre back and front. Draw the collar shape and mark the collar tab. Mirror the tab and mark the button position. Measure and compare the collar seam and the neckline length and adjust parallel to the centre back if necessary.

 

Ärmelschnitt von der Bomberjacke mit Stehkragen

4 SLEEVE

Move the upper sleeve seam 1.5 cm to the back at the hem for the sleeve tab. Measure the front armhole from the armhole notch to the front yoke seam and transfer this amount to the sleeve to mark the position of the front sleeve seam. Draw the front sleeve seam as shown in the illustration. Mark the stitching line for the hem 2 cm wide. Draw the sleeve tab and mark the Velcro as shown. Mark the grainline perpendicular to the elbow line.

 

Sport Bomber Jacket

Template: Basic Bomber Jacket Block, Size 50

sporty Bomber Jacket

  • Inserted knit collar
  • Visible zipper
  • Yoke and facing
  • Zippered chest pocket
  • Welt pocket with snap closure
  • Back seam pocket with zipper
  • Two-piece sleeve with elbow shaping
  • Knit cuffs and waistband

Bomber Jacket with Hood

Template: Basic Bomber Jacket Block, Size 50

Hooded Bomber Jacket

  • Hood with panel and topstitched facing
  • Zipper under front flap
  • Patch pockets with box pleats and pocket flaps
  • Slanted welt pockets
  • Back seam pocket with zipper
  • Sleeve with seam lines for elbow shaping
  • Adjustable sleeve tab
  • Knit waistband
Patternmaking Techniques Jeans-Basics for Men

instructions for the pattern construction

15,80 €
TOC

Further instructions for pattern construction and patterns for sewing jackets can be found in our online shop.

Product: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.

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