Traditional Jacket Pattern
An article from the Damen-Rundschau 7-8.2013
1 Front and Back Pattern:
Use a basic jacket block in size 40 with the shown measurement chart as a template. Mark the finished length at the centre back at 18 cm below the waistline and square out to the left for the temporary hemline. Taper the centre back 1 cm at the hem for the back pleat. Lower the neckline 1 cm at the shoulder on the front and back pattern. Lower the neckline 0.5 cm at the centre back and 2 cm at the centre front. Draw the new neckline perpendicular to the centre back. Shift the sideseam 1 cm to the front. Taper the sideseam 2 cm at the waist and extend the hemline 3 cm at each side. Draw the princess seamline and the side panel seamline on the back pattern as shown in the illustration. Draw the back yoke and mark 0.7 cm intake for a better fit at the armhole. Draw the back tab and mark the button positions. Draw two waist darts on the front pattern. Plot the pocket flap at the waist height and mark the cutting line for the pocket entry from the sideseam to the pocket. Mark the dart intake below the pocket entry as closing amounts. Mark the bust dart intake as closing amount. Add 1.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front for the buttonstand and mark the button positions. Draw the hemline slightly rounded to the sideseam. Plot the collar according to the measurements of the lowered neckline.
2 Front Pattern:
Trace a copy of the front pattern. Cut through the front pattern from the sideseam to the waist darts and close the bust dart. Shorten the second waist dart 4 – 5 cm and shape the front dart. Trace a copy of the back yoke and place it on the front shoulder seam. Blend the armhole curve and draw the front yoke line according to the illustration.
3 Two-piece Sleeve:
Measure the armhole circumference and the armhole height. Calculate the sleeve measurements. Use a matching two-piece sleeve as a template. The sleeve hem width is 26 cm. Draw the stylelines and the sleeve cuff as shown in the illustration. Mark the buttoned sleeve vent on the sleeve centre line and shift the sleeve vent slightly to the front at the hem. Mark the button positions. Mark the open vent at the upper sleeve seam. Join the upper sleeve and under sleeve piece at the sleeve seam and draw the elbow patch.
4 Finished Pattern Pieces:
Copy all pattern pieces and complete all overlapping sections. Trace a copy of the pocket flap and the front facing. Cut the front facing in one with the front panel. Copy and mirror the back tab. Mark the button positions. Close the waist darts below the pocket entry and blend the hemline. Add the pleat depth for the inverted back pleat parallel to the centre back. Trace a copy of the sleeve cuff and add the underlap. Mark the buttonholes and the button positions. Trace a copy of the elbow patch. Mark the grainlines.