This article gives you an insight into the cutting technique of one of our two variants for frock coats. You find the complete article in our journal Herrenrundschau 1-2/2015. This includes the basic frock coat block. You can also get the basic frock coat block from our book HAKA Schnittkonstruktionen Sakkos.
Design 1105 — Conductors Tailcoat
• One Closing Button
• Cutaway Front
• Stand-up Collar
• Chest Pocket
• Back Vent
• Back Panel Seams with Pleats
• Length: 98 cm
Add 1.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front. Mark the buttonhole 1 cm above the waist line. Trim the centre front 1 cm at the lowered neck line and draw the front edge slightly curved to the overlap. Extend the front edge upwards to determine the shape of the stand-up collar corner. Draw the welt pocket according to the illustration. Mark the grain line along the lower part of the centre front. Mark the grain line perpendicular to the waist line on the side panel patterns and parallel to the centre back on the back pattern.
Measure the lowered neck line and draft the stand-up collar 3.5 cm wide according to the illustration. Trace a copy of the front collar piece from the front pattern and place it on the collar construction. Finish the collar slightly smaller at the front with 3 cm width for a nicer shape.
Determine the cap ease. The cap ease should amount 6 to 8 % for industrial manufacturing and 10 to 12 % for a tailored jacket. Cut through the sleeve pattern from the sleeve cap to the hem and overlap or spread the sleeve pieces to adjust the cap ease. Mark the sleeve vent 11 cm long for the four buttonholes. Add the vent facing and the underlap parallel to the sleeve seam. Mark the button positions. Mark the grain line perpendicular to the elbow line.
Sleeve with Movement Gusset for Conductors and Dancers
Trace a copy of the upper and under sleeve to construct the sleeve with movement gusset for dancers and conductors. The gusset is placed beneath and behind the armpit to provide the necessary width to easily lift the sleeve. The armhole should be small and the shoulder narrow and close to the shoulder bone. Lengthen the sleeve seam 8 cm upwards on the upper and under sleeve and draw a circular arc over each point.
Draw the new sleeve cap and lower sleeve curve over the circular arc as shown in the illustration. Mark the gusset with a notch on the sleeve cap and transfer the seam length of the original sleeve cap and lower sleeve curve minus 1 cm to 2 cm to the new gusset line. Transfer the position of the front armhole notch to the gusset seam. Draw the new sleeve seam lines to the gusset lines. Blend the seam transitions at the elbow height.
Frock Coat – Design 1106
Template: Basic Jacket Block, Size 50, HR 10/2013, Page 16