Basic Corsage Block
Deutsch
This article is an extract from the magazine Rundschau for women 3.2012. This issue includes the full instruction and a measurement-chart.
Front and Back Pattern
Draw the basic block in size 40 according to the measurement chart. On a vertical line, measure the scye depth, the back waist length and the hip depth downward. Square out to the left from all points. On the chestline, measure the back width – 0.5 cm, the scye width – 0.5 cm and the chest width + 1 cm to the left. Mark the sideseam at 1/3 and 2/3 scye width. On the chestline, measure 1/10 of the chest girth from the centre front to the right. Draw all perpendicular lines as shown in the illustration. Measure the neck width from the centre back to the left and square up 2 cm. Draw the back neckline. On the back width, measure 2 cm from the neck width line downward for the shoulder slant. Draw the shoulder line and extend it to the shoulder width. Measure the back armhole height and transfer this measurement to the front pitch line.
On the centre front, measure the front waist length II + 3 cm additional length from the waistline upward. From this point, measure the bust depth + 3 cm additional length downward. The additional length is necessary for contouring the corset pattern over the bust area and has to be removed at the centre front with an additional dart or pinching amount. Draw circular arcs from the waistline and the chestline to the right as shown in the illustration. Measure 1/10 of ½ of the chest girth + 1-2 cm along the circular arc and mark the position of the front shoulder seam. Measure the shoulder width from this point to the other circular arc. Draw the armhole according to the illustration. Plot the front neckline. Measure the front piece of the shoulder seam and transfer this amount to the front. Draw the right dart leg and transfer the length to the left dart leg.
On the waistline, measure ¼ of the waist girth – 0.5 cm from the front pitch line to the left. Then measure ½ of the waist girth + 0-1 cm along the waistlineto the right and measure the excess. Remove the excess at the waist at the side seam and the back waist dart. Measure the front excess and transfer it to the front dart. On the hipline, measure ½ of the hip girth + 0-1 cm to the right and add the missing width at the front and back sideseam. Plot the sideseam and the hip curve. Mark the cup at the bust with ½ of the chest width – 1/40 of the chest girth. Measure ¼ of the underbust girth – 0.5 cm from the sideseam to the centre front and transfer the excess to the front dart. Measure ¼ of the underbust girth + 0.5 cm from the sideseam to the centre back and transfer the excess to the back dart. Plot the front and back waist dart.
Corset
Bustier
Front and Back Pattern
Use the basic corset block as a template. Redraw the sideseam and add 1 cm more width at the waist. Mark a pinching amount of 2 cm on the back pattern. Take away 1 cm more at the bust neckline for a better fit.