Raglan Blouse for Plussizes
Pattern Making of a Bow Tie Blouse with Raglan Sleeve
Template: Basic Dress Block in Size 44
Front and Back Pattern
Use a basic dress pattern and a matching onepiece sleeve with overarm seam in size 44 as a template (see measurement chart). The blouse is fitted at the waist which can be flattering for women with a larger bust size. The silhouette is beautifully shaped and very feminine. It is important to pay attention to sufficient width at the waist. The blouse should be fitted, but without strain at the waist button.
Mark the length at the centre back 12 cm below the waist and square out to the left for the hemline. Lower the neckline 2 cm at the shoulder, 0.7 cm at the centre back and 2.5 cm at the centre front. Draw the new neckline. Relocate the bust dart temporarily to the centre front. Relocate the back shoulder dart temporarily to the centre back. Extend the armhole on the front pattern 1 cm and raise the front shoulder 0.5 cm. Extend the armhole on the back pattern 0.5 cm and raise the back shoulder 0.7 cm.
Sleeve and Front Combined
Open the front sleeve pattern around 1 cm. Place the front sleeve on the front pattern with the armhole notches and the shoulder Points touching. Blend the shoulder seam and theoverarm seamline. Lower the armhole around 2 cm and extend the sideseam 1.5 cm. Draw an arc with pivot point Z over the lowered armhole. Mark pivot point Z on the front armhole notch.
Lower the sleeve curve one-half to two-thirds of the amount that the armhole is lowered (Mark the extension of the sleeve seam at the intersection with the arc). Draw the raglan seam from the neckline to point Z and further to the lowered armhole and sleeve curve as shown in the illustration.
Sleeve and Back Combined
Lower and extend the armhole as on the front pattern. Transfer the extended and lowered sleeve seam shape to the back sleeve pattern. Mark pivot Z on the back armhole notch and draw a circular arc 0-1 cm below the lowered armhole. Place the back sleeve on the back pattern with the armhole notches and the shoulder points touching. Blend the shoulder seam and the overarm seamline. Draw the raglan seam from the neckline to point Z and further to the lowered armhole and sleeve curve as shown in the illustration.
Front and Back Pattern
Add 1.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front. Mark the button positions. Lengthen the centre back around 6 cm and draw the centre back straight for cutting the back panel on the fabric fold. Extend each sideseam 3 cm and draw the sideseams. Plot the rounded hemline on the back pattern. Lengthen the centre front 4 cm and drawthe front hemline as illustrated. Draw the stylelines as shown in the illustration.
Bow Collar and Cuff
Measure the lowered back neckline. Draft the bow collar as shown in the illustration. The collar is 8 cm wide at the centre back and smaller at the front for the bow. Sew the collar to the back neckline.
Shorten the sleeves around 2.5 cm. The sleeve darts remain in the pattern for additional width. Mark the pleats and the slit. Determine the pleat depth according to the cuff width. Plot the cuff as shown in the Illustration.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Copy and separate all pattern pieces. Complete overlapping sections. Close the bust dart and blend the styleline. Close the pinching amounts on the front and back pattern. Blend the hemline and the sideseam. Close the back dart and blend the seamline. Copy the front facing and mirror it over the front edge. Copy the sleeve pieces and join them together at the overarm seam. Mark the grainlines.
Two blouses in sizes 36 - 46
- Print Version
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