Product: Download: LINGERIE Fundamentals
Download: LINGERIE Fundamentals
Download: LINGERIE Fundamentals

Raglan Blouse for Plussizes

 

 

Technische Zeichnung Vorder- und Rückansicht einer Raglan Bluse für Große Größen. Die Vorlage für die Schnitt-Technik.

Pattern Making of a Bow Tie Blouse with Raglan Sleeve

Template: Basic Dress Block in Size 44

Front and Back Pattern

Use a basic dress pattern and a matching onepiece sleeve with overarm seam in size 44 as a template (see measurement chart). The blouse is fitted at the waist which can be flattering for women with a larger bust size. The silhouette is beautifully shaped and very feminine. It is important to pay attention to sufficient width at the waist. The blouse should be fitted, but without strain at the waist button.

Mark the length at the centre back 12 cm below the waist and square out to the left for the hemline. Lower the neckline 2 cm at the shoulder, 0.7 cm at the centre back and 2.5 cm at the centre front. Draw the new neckline. Relocate the bust dart temporarily to the centre front. Relocate the back shoulder dart temporarily to the centre back. Extend the armhole on the front pattern 1 cm and raise the front shoulder 0.5 cm. Extend the armhole on the back pattern 0.5 cm and raise the back shoulder 0.7 cm.

 

Sleeve and Front Combined

Die Zeichnung zeigt die Schnittkonstruktion einer Raglan Bluse für Große Größen.

Open the front sleeve pattern around 1 cm. Place the front sleeve on the front pattern with the armhole notches and the shoulder Points touching. Blend the shoulder seam and theoverarm seamline. Lower the armhole around 2  cm and extend the sideseam 1.5 cm. Draw an arc with pivot point Z over the lowered armhole. Mark pivot point Z on the front armhole notch.

Lower the sleeve curve one-half to two-thirds of the amount that the armhole is lowered (Mark the extension of the sleeve seam at the intersection with the arc). Draw the raglan seam from the neckline to point Z and further to the lowered armhole and sleeve curve as shown in the illustration.

 

Sleeve and Back Combined

Die Zeichnung zeigt die Schnittkonstruktion einer Raglan Bluse für Große Größen.

Lower and extend the armhole as on the front pattern. Transfer the extended and lowered sleeve seam shape to the back sleeve pattern. Mark pivot Z on the back armhole notch and draw a circular arc 0-1 cm below the lowered armhole. Place the back sleeve on the back pattern with the armhole notches and the shoulder points touching. Blend the shoulder seam and the overarm seamline. Draw the raglan seam from the neckline to point Z and further to the lowered armhole and sleeve curve as shown in the illustration.

 

Front and Back Pattern

Add 1.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front. Mark the button positions. Lengthen the centre back around 6 cm and draw the centre back straight for cutting the back panel on the fabric fold. Extend each sideseam 3 cm and draw the sideseams. Plot the rounded hemline on the back pattern. Lengthen the centre front 4 cm and drawthe front hemline as illustrated. Draw the stylelines as shown in the illustration.

 

Bow Collar and Cuff

 

Die Abbildung zeigt die Schnitt-Technik eines Kragens und einer Manschette für Große Größen.

Measure the lowered back neckline. Draft the bow collar as shown in the illustration. The collar is 8 cm wide at the centre back and smaller at the front for the bow. Sew the collar to the back neckline.

Shorten the sleeves around 2.5 cm. The sleeve darts remain in the pattern for additional width. Mark the pleats and the slit. Determine the pleat depth according to the cuff width. Plot the cuff as shown in the Illustration.

 

Finished Pattern Pieces Die Abbildung zeigt die fertigen Schnittteile einer Raglan Bluse für Große Größen.

Copy and separate all pattern pieces. Complete overlapping sections. Close the bust dart and blend the styleline. Close the pinching amounts on the front and back pattern. Blend the hemline and the sideseam. Close the back dart and blend the seamline. Copy the front facing and mirror it over the front edge. Copy the sleeve pieces and join them together at the overarm seam. Mark the grainlines.

Pattern Bow Tie Blouses

Two blouses in sizes 36 - 46

22,00 €
28,00 €
TOC

You can find many more pattern instructions and patterns for sewing dresses and blouses in our online shop.

Product: Download: Oktoberfest Dirndl
Download: Oktoberfest Dirndl
Oktoberfest Drindl is a download-product

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