Pattern Construction for Sleeve Variations
Deutsch
Statement sleeves are the red thread that runs through all fashion shows and make every outfit look special. Many different styles can be developed from the basic two-piece sleeve block.
In the e-dossier “Pattern Making Statement-Sleeves” you will find the complete cutting technique for the 8 sleeve variations including the basic cut for two-seam sleeves.
Instruction on pattern construction for eight different types of sleeves and a basic block for women
The sleeve designs
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Sleeve 1
Extend the width at the sleeve cap around 4 cm from 18 – A. Raise the sleeve cap around half the extension plus 1 cm at 9 – B. Draw the new sleeve cap line from A – B to the original sleeve curve at the sleeve seams. Extend the width at the elbow line 8 – C around 3 cm to 4 cm. Copy the under sleeve and place it on the extended upper sleeve with point 17 touching point A und 19 touching C. The extra width at the hem will be gathered. Relocate the sleeve seam to match the sideseam of the front pattern. Measure the distance sideseam to sleeve seam (here 1.8 cm) and transfer this amount to 20 – D.
Draw the sleeve seam straight down to the hem from point D. Add this amount to the sleeve seam of the upper sleeve and hem and draw the new front sleeve seam. Raise the lower sleeve curve 0.5 cm at point E and draw the sleeve curve as shown. Measure the sleeve cap line from D to E. The total sleeve cap width amounts to 60.8 cm, but the finished sleeve cap width should be only 51.8 cm. The difference of 9 cm is divided to four darts that are placed 3 cm apart. Measure the dart distance of 3 cm from B to the left and mark the dart intake with 2.5 cm. Mark the next dart 3 cm to the left with 1.5 cm intake. Mark the upper dart at B with 3 cm intake and the back dart 3 cm away from the upper dart with 2 cm intake. Raise the dart legs 0.5 cm each for nice seam transitions at the sleeve cap line.
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Sleeve 2
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Extend the width at the elbow line 8 – A around 4 cm and connect point A and point 18 with a straight line. Lengthen this line 9 cm below the elbow line A –B and draw a curve from here to point 16. Mark the curved styleline from A – C 13 cm above the elbow line and draw the curved seamline to point D (15 cm above the hem). Copy the lower part of the upper sleeve pattern and place it on the copied under sleeve pattern.
Slash and spread the lower sleeve pattern as shown in the illustration. Open the front cutting line 1 cm and the two back cutting lines 2 cm each. Relocate the end of the curved styleline 2 cm towards the under sleeve for a better seam transition. Draw the new seamlines from D in a beautiful curve to the undersleeve as shown.
Sleeve 3
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Sleeve 4
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Sleeve 5
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Sleeve 6
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Sleeve 7
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Sleeve 8
(Photo Credit: Drawing A. Wenzel)
Further instructions for pattern construction and patterns for sewing can be found in our online shop.
