Pattern Construction for Coats
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawings D. Lopian and A. Horn )
This article includes three coat variations, designed by students from the university in Sigmaringen. The complete pattern construction is available in the journal Rundschau for women 3.2014.
Cocoon Coat(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Schwarz)
Front and Back Pattern
Use a basic coat pattern in size 40 as a template. Mark the finished length at the centre back with 98 cm. Draw straight guide lines for the side seam from the chest line to the waist line. Extend the front side seam 1 cm and the back side seam 1.8 cm at the waist. Draw the extended side seams to the hem. Draw the back hemline perpendicular to the centre back. Draw the front side seam the same length than the back side seam. Taper the side seams 4 cm at the hem and draw the cocoon-shape side seams as shown in the illustration. Draw the back yoke perpendicular to the centre back. Draw the back style seam and taper the seam line at the hem. Mark a closing amount from the bust point to the hem. Mark a cutting line from the side seam to the bust point. Draw the welt pocket on the front pattern. Lower the neckline 1 cm at the shoulder and 0.5 cm at the centre back. Add 2.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front. Mark the lapel break and the button positions. Plot the lapel and the collar as shown in the illustration.
Use a matching two-piece sleeve as a template. Mark the sleeve vent and the button positions.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Separate all pattern pieces. Trace a copy of the upper sleeve and the under sleeve pattern. Copy the front and back facing. Copy the upper collar and the under collar pattern. Add roll width to the upper collar and the front facing. Cut through the front pattern from the side seam to the bust point and close the bust dart. Shorten the side dart. Add the mitred sleeve vent facing and underlap. Mark the button positions. Check all seam transitions, blend the seam lines and mark the grain lines.
Short Coat with Zipper(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Horn)