Download Pattern Constructions Women: Blousons
Instructions for the pattern construction of four different blousons jackets.
Pattern Construction for a Caban Jacket
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The Caban jacket is a jacket reaching over the hip and/or a short coat or Stutzer. Usually it is double-breasted with a very wide lapel collar, accentuated pockets and large buttons or gag closure. It emerged in the 60’s and was inspired by the marine jacket. In the 70’s he was waisted a little and liked to be made into camel-haired wool fabrics. And even today the jacket comes in a modern cut and functional equipment. It is the perfect companion for cool days and an absolute classic.
Pattern Construction Caban Jacket for Ladies
Template: Loose-fitting Jacket Block, matching One-Piece Sleeve in Size 40
You can order the complete pattern making instruction thru our customer service: kundenservice@ebnermedia.de
Jacket – Front and Back Pattern
- Draw the hem facing 8 cm wide on the front and back pattern. Draw a guideline from the bust Point perpendicular to the centre front. Mark the upper toggle closure 1 cm below the guideline. Mark two more toggle buttons with 13 cm distance. Mark the lapel break point 1 cm above the guideline. On the front pattern, measure 2 cm from the neck point to the left for the collar stand. Draw the lapel break from this point to the front edge. Measure the length of the new back neck line from the neck point to the lapel break. Square out to the right and measure the back collar width 6 cm plus 1 cm to the right. Draw a straight guideline from this point that end 1.5 cm left of the lowered neck point. Square up from the guideline and measure the back width upwards (2 cm for the collar stand and 6 cm for the collar width = 8 cm).
- Draw the lapel and collar shape at first on the front pattern and the mirrored them over the lapel break to the left. Lengthen the gorge seam 2.5 cm over the lapel break on the front pattern and draw the front neck line to this point. Draw the collar seam to the neck line. Collar seam and neck line overlap at the shoulder. Draw short perpendicular lines from the centre back of the collar as well as the collar stand and draw the break line and the collar edge. Draw the tab as shown. Draw the back style seam according to the illustration. On the waist line, measure 2 cm intake from the back style seam to the left and finish the seam line. Mark the pocket position on the front pattern as shown in the illustration.
Jacket – Sleeve
- Adapt the sleeve to the new armhole. Measure 1/2 to 1/3 of the armhole lowering (here 1.5 cm) downward along the sleeve seam. Draw short perpendicular lines from the lowered bicep line to the left and right. Measure and transfer the length of the new front armhole curve from the armhole notch to the side seam. Draw the lowered sleeve curve to the short perpendicular guideline with the same length than the measured armhole length. Transfer the front armhole extension (here 2.5 cm) to the back sleeve seam. Draw the sleeve seam slightly curved. Move the dart to the elbow line. Draw the sleeve facing 14 cm parallel to the hem. Mark the sleeve tab on the sleeve facing according to the illustration.
Jacket – Finished Pattern Pieces
- Trace a copy of the individual pattern pieces. On the front pattern, shorten the bust dart to a finished length of 15 cm. Add 0.3 cm roll width to the lapel corner of the front facing and the upper collar. Add 0.5 cm roll width at the centre back of the upper collar. Close the dart on the front hem facing.Mark the grain line.
Metric Patternmaking for Jackets & Coats
Further instructions for pattern construction and finished patterns for jackets and coats can be found in our online shop.
Download Pattern Construction Men: WindbreakerJackets
Instructions for the pattern construction of four different windbreaker jackets for men.
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