Grading different Sleeves
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This article gives a little insight into grading. It shows how to reduce or enlarge the basic pattern of a sleeve to a different, desired size. The required measurements (increments) can be taken from the grading table. This table can be found in our reference book “Grading Women’s & Children’s clothing”.
The complete article is available in our book Grading Women and Kids Apparel.
This reference book focusses on the special subject of increasing and decreasing patterns in size according to the M. Müller & Sohn system – also known as GRADING.
Direction Indicators for a One-Piece Sleeve
The measurements are marked with abbreviations and the grading directions are indicated by arrows for the grading of a one-piece sleeve. The vertical and horizontal lines are marked perpendicular to the construction lines of the basic block.
Calculate the average of the actual grading increments of size 34 – size 46 (4 + 7 mm = 11; 11/2 = 5.5 mm) and of size 46 – size 54 (4 + 11 mm = 15; 15/2 = 7.5 mm) to match the horizontal grading increments of the upper sleeve and the under sleeve.
Grading a narrow One-Piece Sleeve with Dart from Size 38 to Size 46
The grading increments are shown in chart 4 and 5. Grading the elbow dart is required for the narrow one-piece sleeve and is done in proportion to the grading increments of the front and back sleeve seam as well as the hem width. The location of the dart is unimportant and has less effect on the shape of the sleeve.
1:
Draw a perpendicular line to the elbow line for measuring the horizontal and vertical grading increments.
1-2 Vertical cap increment 12.8 mm. Measure the vertical cap increment upwards from point 1.
2-3 Horizontal cap increment 8 mm. Square out to the right.
4-5 Vertical increment for the back sleeve seam 3.2 mm
5-6 Horizontal increment for the back sleeve seam 16 mm. Square out to the right.
7-8 Sleeve seam increment 30 mm. This amount consists of the following increments: w.Oä. 16 mm + ½ Ad 14 mm = 30 mm.
In this e-dossier, you will find instruction on pattern construction for seven different sleeve variations for women.
9-10 ½ scye width increment14 mm.
Draw the front sleeve cap curve from point 3 to the front armhole notch (v. Äe).
Draw the back sleeve cap curve from point 3 over point 6 to point 8.
Use the basic pattern as a template for drawing the sleeve cap curve.
Make sure that the back armhole notch (h. Äe) of the sleeve matches the back armhole notch of the back pattern and the ease included in the sleeve cap is the same in proportion to the armhole.
11-12 Under sleeve seam increment. The front and back under sleeve seam is graded 5 mm less at the hem than at the upper corner 7-8.
The lower sleeve length and the elbow line are not graded, because the sleeve is already graded at the sleeve cap (increment 1-2). The difference resulting from the two amounts is ignored.
12-13 Use the basic pattern as a template to draw the sleeve hem up to the dart line (dashed line).
13-14 Hem width 28 mm.
The dart point remains at the same height and is graded around the amount of hem width increment to the right. Draw the front dart leg.
12-16 same as 11-15.
Draw a perpendicular line from point 15 to the sleeve middle line and extend this line to the right. Measure the increment 11-12 from point 15 to the right. Place the basic pattern at this point and use it as a template to draw the elbow dart.
Grading a short Sleeve from Size 38 to Size 46 and from Size 38 to Size 34
Use the same grading increments as for the long one-piece sleeve since the short sleeve and the long sleeve are enlarged and reduced to the same sizes.
The front and back sleeve seams are graded parallel to the basic pattern. Grading the length at the hem is not required, but can be done if preferred for the design.
Direction Indicators for a Two-Piece Sleeve
The vertical and horizontal directions for grading a two-piece sleeve are marked with arrow lines.
The dimension designations are indicated in the form of dimension abbreviations. The vertical and horizontal lines are to be made at an angle to the elbow line.
Where can I find a instructions on how to make a basic sleeve block/
Dear Leigh, you can find basic sleeve blocks in the book Metric Patternmaking for Dresses & Blouses or a basic pattern block for a wide two-seam sleeve can be found in the e-dossier Schnitt-Technik Statement-Ärmel . It is possible to order an english translation with it.