Leg of Mutton Sleeve Pattern Constrution
The leg of mutton sleeve is wide at the upper sleeve and close fitting at the wrist. This kind of sleeve is also called ham sleeve or gigot (french). This sleeve came up at the end of the 16th century, became modern again around the turn of the century and is now returning to fashion. The width at the sleeve cap is either gathered or pleated. The shoulder width should be reduced for this sleeve with high sleeve cap. Use the standard or fitted sleeve as a template for the pattern construction. The following illustrations show two variations of the leg of mutton sleeve in width and design.
This article is an excerpt from our book Metric patternmaking for dresses and blouses
Leg of Mutton Sleeve with moderate width
Cut through the sleeve patten from the shoulder point at the sleeve cap to the dart end point for this moderate leg-of mutton silhouette. Close the dart intake partially or fully and open the sleeve cap accordingly. The amount of opening depends on preference and fabric. Raise the sleeve cap around half of the amount of opening (here 4 cm). Draw the new sleeve cap line as shown in the illustration.
Leg of Mutton Sleeve with wider sleeve cap
Slash and Spread the sleeve pattern twice for a leg of mutton sleeve With a Wider sleeve cap. Mark two cutting lines each 3 – 4 cm away from the shoulder point. Cut through the sleeve pattern along the elbow line and the two cutting lines. Close the sleeve dart and spread the sleeve pieces evenly at the sleeve cap. At the same time, move the sleeve pieces up from the elbow line. Raise the sleeve cap around 4 – 5 cm and draw the new sleeve cap line according to the illustration. Adjust the length at the front sleeve seam by moving the upper piece upwards and blend the seam lines.