Pattern Construction for 4 Casual Jackets
Deutsch
Casual jackets made from stretch fabrics like Jersey are popular because of their comfort, not only for classic styles but also for sportive designs. The cuts are designed for unlined jackets with patch pockets and few seams to achieve a clean look on the inside. Ease allowances and sleeve patterns are optimized for the stretch of the material. Shoulder pads and sleeve fish are not needed.
Find the complete article in our magazine Rundschau for men 2.2017.
Jersey Jacket
Template: Basic Jacket Block, HR 6/2011,
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing A. Sextl)
- Two buttons
- Narrow lapel collar
- Patch pockets
- Elbow patches
- Back vent
- Length 72 cm
Design Pattern and Collar
Draw the front waist dart. Mark the dart middle line 1/10 of the abdomen width away from the midpoint of the front. Draw the dart middle line perpendicular to the hemline. Draw the front waist dart with 2 cm dart intake. Do not cut the dart intake open but press the intake to one side instead for the unlined construction. Extend the sideseam slightly at the waist to make up for the additional intake at the waist dart. Draw the new sideseam. Mark the closing button 4 cm above the waist and add 1.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front. Draw a perpendicular line to the hem as a guideline for the front edge. The guideline does not have to meet the centre front at the hem. Mark the lower button 11 cm below the closing button. Draw the cut-away front edge as shown in the illustration. Mark the buttonholes 1.5 cm away from the front edge. Extend the shoulder seam 2 cm to the left.
Mark the begin of the lapel break and draw the lapel as shown in the illustration. Measure the back neckline for the construction of the felt under collar. Extend the lapel break upwards and transfer the back neckline length minus 0.5 cm from the neck point to the extended lapel break. Square out to the right from this point. The collar for this casual jacket has less stand and therefore requires less deduction for the collar roll. Along the perpendicular line, measure 1.3 cm for the collar roll (reduced amount for the long lapel) and 2.5 cm for the collar stand to the right. Draw the collar seam to the neckline and draw the collar back perpendicular to the collar seam. Complete the collar shape as shown.
Draw the patch pockets with the rounded corners according to the illustration. Mark the position of the side patch pocket on the original pocket entry of the basic jacket block. Mark the pocket 2 cm in front of the new waist dart. Draw the back vent 21 cm long and add 4 cm for the vent facing and underlap. Mark the vent stitching line 3 cm away from the centre back. Mark the grainline along the lower part of the centre back. Mark the grainline on the side pattern perpendicular to the hem. Mark the grainline on the front pattern along the dart middle line.
Sleeve
Draw the hem on the upper sleeve straight. Blend the sleeve seamlines. Draw the elbow patch as shown. Mark the grainlines perpendicular to the elbow line.
Jacket with Knit Collar
Template: Basic Casual Jacket Block, HR 6/2011
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing A. Sextl)
- Four buttons
- Wide knit shawl collar
- Patch pockets with inverted pleats and pocket flaps
- Shoulder yoke
- Back vent and back belt
- Length 76 cm
Jacket with Stand-up Collar
Template: Basic Slim Jacket Block , HR 8-9/2015
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing A. Sextl)
- Three buttons
- Attached stand-up collar
- Slanted yokeSlanted welt pockets
- Sleeve with slit and cuff
- Back vent
- Length 76 cm
Jacket Coat
Template: Basic Slim Jacket Block in Size 50, HR 8-9/2015,
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing A. Sextl)
- Three buttons
- Narrow lapel collar
- Shifted shoulder seam
- Patch pockets
- Chest pocket
- Back vent
- Length 94 cm
Pattern Order
You can order the pattern 1145, 1146, 1147, 5029 in size:
44 – 60, 23 – 31 and 88 -114. Price for one size: 30,- E (plus postage).
Sextl-Schnitt-Service, Hahndorfer Straße 6, 81377 München,
Tel.: 089/71 62 40, Fax: 089/710 55 77 2, e-mail: alexander.6tl@gmx.de, www.sextl-schnitt-service.de
