Pattern Construction for Retro Dresses
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(Photo Credit: Drawing V. Feyerabend)
Retro-inspired dresses with calf-length, wideswinging skirts are currently a big trend. Typical style elements such as bibs, volants, and ruffles are incorporated in the following four designs.
This article includes four dress variations in Retro style. The complete pattern construction is available in the journal Rundschau for women 7/8.2018.
Dress with Wide Shoulder Collar
Template: Basic Dress Block in Size 40 with the following ease included: Rh scye depth 1 cm, Rb back width 1 cm, Ad scye width 1 cm, Bb chest width 1 cm
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing S. Lindner)
- Front button placket
- Wide shoulder collar
- Gathered front
- Slightly flared hem
- Patch pocket with pocket flap
- Length 110 cm
Preparation Front Pattern
Separate the bodice pattern and the skirt pattern. Mark half of the buttonstand width to the inside of the front pattern (here 1 cm). Trim the shoulder 1.5 cm at the armhole and draw the new armhole curves. Shorten the bust dart to the chest line. Mark a horizontal cutting line from the front waist dart to the centre front. Cut through the front pattern from the centre front to the Darts and close the bust dart and the front waist dart. Rotate the dart intakes to the centre front.
Front Pattern
Add three more cutting lines and open the front 2 cm each cutting line. Gather the width at the centre front to the original length. Lower the front neckline 10 cm at the centre front. Mark the shoulder strap 3.5 cm wide. Draw the neckline shape. Blend the waistline.
Back Pattern
Trim the shoulder 1.5 cm at the armhole and mark the shoulder strap the same width as on the front pattern. Lower the neckline 5 cm at the centre back and draw the back neckline as shown. Relocate the shoulder dart temporarily to the armhole.
Front and Back Skirt
Mark half the buttonstand width parallel to the centre front (here 1 cm). Cut from the hem to the front dart and back dart. Close the darts on the front and back pattern and open the hem accordingly. Add 2 cm to the sideseam for a shallow hip curve. Blend the waistline and the hemline. Mark the pocket position.
Front Collar
The collar is drafted on the front and back pattern. Draw a circular arc with pivot point Z over the neck point at the shoulder and mark twice the collarstand width along the circular arc. Draw the collar line and the dashed collar break line as shown in the illustration. Draw the collar 5 cm wide at the centre front and gather the collar to a finished width of 3 cm at the front. Draw the collar 11.5 cm wide at the shoulder.
Back Collar
Extend the centre back two times 2.5 cm upwards and mark two times 2 cm for the collarstand at the shoulder. Connect both lines as shown.
Joined Front and Back Collar
Trace a copy of the upper back pattern and place the back pattern on the front pattern with 2 cm to 3 cm distance between the shoulder points for sufficient length over the shoulder. Place the back pattern 0.5 cm to 1 cm away from the front at the neck Point to match the correct collar length.
Patch Pocket
Draw the patch pocket as shown. Add some roll width to the upper edge and finish the patch pocket with lining.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Adjust the outer length of the collar by slashing and
spreading the collar around 1 cm to 2 cm. Steamshape
the collar at the collar seam. Rotate the
armhole dart back to the shoulder and connect it
with the waist dart for the back panel seam. Check
the seam lengths and the seam transitions. Mark the
grainline. Copy the armhole facing and the hem
facing..
Dress with Contrast Binding
Template: Basic Dress Block in Size 40 with the following ease included: Rh scye depth 1.5 cm, Rb back width 1 cm, Ad scye width 2 cm, Bb chest width 1.5 cm
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing S. Lindner)
- Gathers at sleeves and neckline
- Contrast facing at sleeves and neckline
- Flared skirt
- Round waistline seam
- Zipper closure at the centre back
- Length 110 cm
Dress with Pintuck Bib
Template: Basic Dress Block in Size 40 with the following ease included: Rh scye depth 2 cm, Rb back width 1 cm, Ad scye width 2 cm, Bb chest width 1.5 cm
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing S. Lindner)
- Pintuck bib
- Button front
- Sideseam Zipper
- Pointed waistline seam
- Raglan sleeve with seam
- Narrow cuff with slit
- Length 110 cm
Dress with Zig-Zag Front
Template: Basic Dress Block in Size 40 with the following ease included: Rh scye depth 2 cm, Rb back width 1 cm, Ad scye width 1.5 cm, Bb chest width 1.5 cm
(Photo Credit: Technical drawing S. Lindner)
- Asymmetrical zig-zag front
- Gathers at V-neckline and sleeves
- Flared skirt
- Sleeve with vent and 4 buttons
- Sideseam Zipper
- Length 110 cm
