Zipper Jacket for Men
Deutsch
(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)
Pattern Construction for Zipper Jacket
- Front zipper
- Panel seams and yoke lines
- Shifted shoulder seam
- Side pockets
- Bellowed chest pocket with zipper
- Large chest pocket with Zipper
- Sleeve with seam lines
- High stand-up collar
The complete article is available in Rundschau for men 6/2016. You can order this issue with an english translation of the pattern making part thru our customer service: kundenservice@ebnermedia.de
Front and Back Pattern
Prepare the basic pattern for the style development as follows: Lower the armhole 2 cm and draw the new armhole curves from the front and back armhole notch to the side seam. Lower the neckline 0.5 cm at the centre back, 0.8 cm at the shoulder, and 1.5 cm at the centre front. Draw the new neckline. Trim the centre front 0.7 cm for the front zipper. Adapt the jacket to the client’s measurements by tapering the sideseam 1 cm at the waist, 1 cm at the hip on the back pattern and 1.5 cm at the hip on the front pattern. Draw the new sideseam. Also take out 1.5 cm at the back panel seam and 2 cm at the front Panel seam. Draw the front yoke. Separate the front yoke from the front pattern and place the yoke piece onto the back pattern. Blend the seam transition. The position of the yoke lines depends on the position of the sleeve seams…
Chest Pocket
Trace a copy of the chest pocket and add 2 cm at each side for the bellow pleat. Leave the bottom edge without Pleat.
Collar
Draw the collar on a horizontal line. Measure the lowered neckline on the front and back pattern and add both measurements. Measure ½ neckline length to the left and square up 1 cm. Raise the collar line 3 cm at the centre back. Divide the horizontal line in thirds and draw the collar line as shown in the illustration. Measure the distance m1 on the horizontal line and Transfer this measurement to the collar line. Measure 4 cm for the collarstand width and square out to the left. Draw the collarstand as shown in the illustration. Measure 5 cm upward on the centre back, square out to the left and draw the collarstand seam. Mark the beginning of the round seam with a notch. Measure the collarstand seam m2 and transfer this length to the collar. Mark the collar 7.5 cm wide at the centre back. Square up 10 cm at the front of the collar and measure 2 cm for the left. Draw the collar tip and collar shape as shown in the illustration. Trace a copy of the collarstand. Mark the cutting lines on the collar pattern as shown. Slash and spread the collar 0.5 cm each at the collar edge. Blend the seamline. Measure the collar line and compare this length with the lowered neckline. Adjust the collar length parallel to the centre back if necessary. This collar is a combination of stand up collar and convertible collar and has a close fit that protects the wearer from the elements but can also be worn folded down for a more casual look.
In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.
Further instructions for pattern construction and finished patterns for sewing menswear can be found in our online shop.
