Draft the collar directly onto the joined front and back pattern for a very Wide Sailor collar to achieve the necessary length at the collar edge.
The Sailor collar has a loop closure without overlap. Mark point P on the centre front 12-16 cm below the neckline. Lower the neckline 1.5 cm at the shoulder. Draw a guideline from point P to the lowered shoulder point. Draw a circular are from the lowered neckline to the left with pivot point P. Measure 1.5 – 2 cm (here 2 cm) twice for the collar stand on the circular arc. Mark as point B. Measure 0.5 cm from point B to the tight and a draw straight line to point P. Draw the front neckline curve from point B to the straight line and draw the break line (dashed line) in between the lines. Plot the collar shape on the front pattern as preferred or according to the illustration. Mark point D at the shoulder seam (collar width).
Lower the back neckline at the shoulder the same amount as at the front. Lower the back neckline at the centre back half the amount. Use the prepared back pattern of figure 404a as a template for the collar construction since collar stand and neckline are identical for these styles. Place the back pattern on the front pattern with the collar stands and the shoulders touching. Then turn the back pattern so that point C is 0.5 – 1cm away from point B (for sufficient length at the collar line). The shoulder lines do not overlap at point D for sufficient length at the collar edge over the shoulders.
Mirror the collar at the break line. Trace a copy of the collar up to the collar line and place it mirrored on the neckline. The collar and the front pattern overlap at the neck point. Mark a seam line 4 cm below the overlap to separate the under collar from the front pattern if preferred. Copy the collar and complete the overlapping section.
The illustration shows the finished front pattern, the under collar and the front facing with the attached upper collar.
This is an excerpt from the book Metric Patternmaking for Dresses and Blouses