Pattern Construction – Raglan Jacket for Plussize
Template: Loose-fitting Jacket Block in Size 44
Front and Back Pattern
Use a basic loose-fitting jacket pattern and a matching one-piece sleeve with overarm seam in size 44 as a template (see measurement chart). Mark the length at the centre back with 82 cm. Lower the neckline 3 cm at the shoulder, 1 cm at the centre back and 4.5 cm at the centre front. Draw the new neckline.
Relocate the bust dart temporarily to the centre front. Relocate the back shoulder dart temporarily to the centre back. Extend the armhole on the front pattern 1 cm and raise the front shoulder 0.5 cm. Extend the armhole on the back pattern 0.5 cm and raise the back shoulder 1 cm. Open the back pattern About 1 cm at the centre back.
Sleeve and Front Combined
Open the front sleeve pattern around 1 cm. Place the front sleeve on the front pattern with 1 cm distance between the armhole notches and the sleeve cap 1 cm within the front pattern at the raised shoulder seam. Blend the shoulderseam and the overarm seamline. Lower the armhole around 2 cm and extend the sideseam 1 cm. Mark pivot point Z 1.5 cm above the front armhole notch. Draw an arc with pivot point Z over the lowered armhole.
Lower the sleeve curve one-half to two-thirds of the amount thatthe armhole is lowered (Mark the extension of the sleeve seam at the intersection with the arc). Draw the raglan seam from the neckline to Point Z and further to the lowered armhole and sleeve curve as shown in the illustration. Mark the cutting lines for the bust dart and the he extension. Plot the round patch pocket as illustrated.
Sleeve and Back Combined
Lower and extend the armhole as on the front pattern. Transfer the extended and lowered sleeve seam shape to the back sleeve pattern. Mark pivot Z on the back armhole notch and draw a circular arc 0-1 cm below the lowered armhole. Place the back sleeve on the back pattern with 1 cm distance between the armhole notches and the sleeve cap 1 cm within the back pattern at the raised shoulder seam. Blend the shoulder seam and the overarm seamline.
Draw the raglan seam from the neckline to point Z and further to the lowered armhole and sleeve curve as shown in the illustration. Mark the cutting lines for the hem extension and the dart. Measure the lowered neckline on the front and back pattern. Draw a guideline for the collar on the front neckline. Square down and measure 3 cm for the shape of the collar. Draw the collar seamline. Plot the collar shape as illustrated. Draw the collar overlap up to the raglan seamline. Mark the buttonhole positions.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Copy and separate all pattern pieces. Complete overlapping sections. Cut through the front pattern from the hem and from the sideseam to the bust point. Relocate half of the bust dart to the sideseam and the remaining half to the hem. Blend the hemline and shorten the side dart. Mark the pocket position. Copy the front facing and plot the underlap for the front zipper. Cut through the back pattern from the hem to the dart point.
Close the dart and extend the hemline the same amount as the front hemline. Relocate the remaining dart to the raglan seam and keep it short when sewing the seamline. Mirror the collar at the centre back and add the overlap as shown in the illustration. Relocate the sleeve darts to the elbow and shorten the elbow dart. Blend all seamlines. Mark the grainlines.