Blazer with docorative radial Darts
This blazer jacket with decoratively laid darts, which radiate towards the centre front, can be made with a firm cotton fabric to a business jacket or with noble material to an evening jacket.
Front and Back Pattern:
Use a basic jacket block in size 40 as a template (see measurement chart). Mark the length at the hipline. Lower the neckline 0.8 cm at the centre front and at the shoulder seam on the front and back pattern. Lower the neckline 0.5 cm at the centre back and draw the new neckline perpendicular to the centre back. The front dart intake will be taken out of the pattern. Add another 1 cm intake on the front pattern that will be taken out. Mark the seam line for the tie 3 cm above and below the waistline. The illustration shows the position of the radial darts but the intakes at the front should be closed before the darts can be marked on the pattern. Mark the waistline as a cutting line.
Preparation Front Pattern:
Cut along the front waistline from the centre front to the side seam and spread the upper and lower front pattern so far apart that the intakes can be closed without overlapping the pattern pieces.
Pinching the Front Pattern:
Cut out the intakes on the front pattern and close the amounts as shown in the illustrations. The bust dart opens temporarily.
Now draw the seam lines for the radial darts according to the illustration. The upper dart ends 2 cm away from the bust point. Draw a short cutting line from this point to the bust point.
Completion Front Pattern:
Cut from the centre front along the dart lines and from the upper dart to the bust point and to the side seam. Leave the pattern pieces together at the side seam. Close the bust dart. The short cutting line opens. Turn the dart leg to equalize the seam lengths. Open the darts depending on preference and material (here 4.5 cm). Blend the side seam.
Measure the armhole circumference and the armhole height. Calculate the sleeve measurements. Use a matching sleeve block as a template.
Finished Pattern Pieces:
Separarte all pattern pieces. Trace a copy of the front facing from the basic pattern with the lowered neckline without the darts. Trace a copy of the under sleeve. Shorten the darts as shown in the illustration. Mark the grainlines.