Product: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.

The classic Tailcoat

Zu sehen ist der korrekte Frack

This article from Mastertailor Manfred Seidl is an excerpt from the book HAKA Meisterschneider

When designing and fitting the tailcoat suit, it should be noted that in addition to the fit, all the parts harmonize with each other: The hem of the vest (aka. waistcoat) must align with the hem of the tailcoat. The vest or tailcoat shall be shortened or lengthened appropriatly. It is also important to ensure that the trousers do not flash out from the waistcoat cutout, therefore the trousers are cut too high (or the waistcoat is cut too long). The edge of the tail is right when it touches the side seam of the trousers, therefore an intervention in the trouser pocket is possible. The edge of the tail can be varied if necessary, it can also continue into the torso part behind the dart.

Das Bild zeigt Modelles eines Frack auf dem Laufsteg
Runway Inspiration: Dior & Gucci

 

The tailcoat suit contains of:

  • Tailcoat, black with silk facing on the lapel.
  • Tailcoat trousers, made of the same fabric as the tailcoat with two galon stripes at the side seam.
  • Tailcoat vest, made of white cotton piqué (backless).
  • Dress shirt with reinforced/starched front insert, stand-up collar with short points.
  • Bow tie, “Butterfly” style
  • Dress coat with tippet/cape.
  • Pocket watch, attached to a loop at the waistband on the left side.
  • Pumps with grosgrain ribbon bow, conditionally patent leather shoes.
  • Top hat
Das Bild zeigt Modelles eines Frack auf dem Laufsteg
Runway Inspiration: Dolce & Gabbana

The first tailcoat fitting:

For shaping the tailcoat, which is especially tailored to the waist, it is the most important step during the construction process. The tailcoat has a front lining like a jacket, to emphasize and shape the shoulder and chest area. The following steps in the construction process play a crucial role in the first sample:

  • The shaping (= applying shape to the pattern pieces, stretching and easing in using an iron)
  • The fabrication of the front interfacing
  • The concealment (= connecting the front insert with the outer fabric)
  • The preparation of the tails

Schnitt-Teile eines Fracks

 

The shaping/molding

The molding is a process of applying a certain form to the individual pattern pieces such as stretching or easing in the fabric using an iron before it is further processed. The shaping/molding adds a perfect look and supports the fit of the garment. Both parts lie right sides together on top of each other and are successively shaped from both sides. The molding must be exaggerated, because the fabric goes back again. The manipulated pattern pieces must be able to set and completely cool off before further processing.

Dressur eines Fracks

Sewing Pattern Tailcoat

You can find an overview of the pattern tailcoat in the article > Schnittmuster Frack

Product: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men
In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.

2 Comments for this article

  1. Dear Sir/Madam,

    Is this book also available in English? Or are there any other books you can recommend that are in English?

    My German isn’t good, so I might not be able to get much use out of the book in German.

    Kind regards,

    Thijs

    Reply to this comment
    1. Dear Thijs van Dam, the book HAKA Meisterschneider is so far only available in german language. You can find pattern construction for men’s fashion in our English-language book Fundamentals Menswear.
      https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/fundamentals-menswear/

      Reply to this comment

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