How to make a Dress with Pointed Yoke
Template: Basic Dress Pattern in Size 40
Find the whole instruction and further designs in our magazine Rundschau for women 9.2017.
You find more pattern constructions in our book “Metric Patternmaking Dresses & Blouses“.
Front Pattern
Mark the finished length at the centre back with 60 cm to 65 cm. Copy a matching one-piece sleeve with overarm seam up to the elbow line for the sleeve construction.
Copy the basic dress pattern without any extension at the hem and separate the pattern pieces at the waistline. Relocate the bust dart and the waist dart intake temporarily to the sideseam. Lower the neckline 0.5 cm at the centre back and 1 cm at the shoulder. Place the front sleeve piece on the front pattern with the front armhole notches matching and the sleeve cap 0 cm to 0.5 cm within the shoulder. Extend the shoulder line 4.5 cm for the pointed shoulder yoke. Place the back sleeve piece on the back pattern with the back armhole notches touching and the same position at the shoulder as on the front pattern. Extend the shoulder line 4.5 cm for the yoke. Draw the pointed yoke on the front and back pattern. Close the dart on the back pattern and rotate the dart intake to the yoke line.
Shorten the sleeve 4 cm and redraw the overarm seam. Move the armhole slightly inwards and draw the new armhole curve. Draw the slanted seamline on the front panel and transfer the position at the side to the back pattern. Draw the slanted seamline on the back pattern. Cut through the front and back skirt pattern from the hem to the dart endpoint. Close the dart intake and rotate the dart intake to the hem on the front and back skirt pattern. Blend the hemline and the waist line. Draw the slanted seamlines and the pocket as shown in the illustration. Add 1.8 cm parallel to the front for the buttonstand and mark the front placket 3.6 cm wide. Mark the button positions. Mark the beginning of the lapel break at the front as shown in the illustration. Draw the lapel break 2 cm away from the lowered shoulder point.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Copy all pattern pieces. Trace a copy of the collar and the front facing. Cut through the front pattern from the yoke line to the bust point and close the bust dart. Blend the seamline and take away 0.5 cm seam length at the armhole. Join the sleeve pieces together at the overarm seam. Check all seam transitions and blend the seamlines. Mark the grainline.