Pattern Cutting for Body Fashion
Since lingerie can be made from a variety of materials, the pattern construction should be adapted to the respective fabric characteristics. For non-elastic materials such as silk fabrics, draft the patterns according to the body measurements with no ease or some ease depending on the design. For fabrics with a little stretch or two-way stretch, construct the pattern depending on the design according to the body measurements or slightly reduced measurements. The deduction can be calculated in cm or in percent from the Body measurements (width measurements). For a high percentage stretch or four-way stretch fabrics, calculate the stretch deduction in percent for the length and width measurements.
Draft the pattern with the reduced body measurements. 15 to 20% of the width and 0 to 5% of the length measurements are recommended. The stretch should be verified for each material, since some fabrics lose some length if stretched in the width. Draft the pattern according to the Body measurements without deductions if different materials such as lace and jersey are combined in one design. Reduce the individual pattern pieces later depending on the stretch factor of the respective material.
How to scale finished pattern pieces for stretch fabrics
Place the pattern piece on a photocopier and print a copy on a scale. For example: 10% stretch = scale 1: 0.9. Note width and length separately!
Elastic materials require special processing. Special machines are needed to ensure the elasticity of the seams. The following machines and accessories are recommended:
• Serger/Overlock machine with differential feed for sewing and finishing the edges and Special presser foot (elastic foot) for inserting elastic tape
• Twin needle (special plate for industrial machine) for topstitching/flat stitching the seams and hems.
• Triple zigzag stitch (mostly on domestic machines) also for topstitching/flat stitching the seams.
• Bridge and channeling backed with heavier Charmeuse fabric to ensure a firm stand of the under wires.
• Transparent elastic tape at round lace edges to prevent sagging.
• Adjustable straps with rings and sliders.
• Soft elastic for waistband and leg shape.
• Crotch lining for panties, bodies and shorts.
• Snap closure or hook and eye closure for bodies. Add underlap depending on the design.
The full article shows the pattern construction of following basic blocks: Basic Body Block, Basic Bodice Block, Basic Shorts Pattern and Basic Panty Pattern. In this instruction you can find the pattern-construction of one of the designs.
This instruction is an extract from our magazine Rundschau for women 2.2015.
Following pattern constructions build on the basic blocks: Chemise with Panty, Halter Body with Lace Insert, Body with Peplum, Jump Suit with Cups and Elastic Waistband, Jump Suit with Fork Darts and Jump Suit with Waist Yoke. (Variations are shown in the photo above)
We give you an insight into the article with one of the constructions listed above.
Body with Peplum(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)
Draw the cup seam underneath the breast. The seam line starts 1 cm below the dart at the centre front and ends 5 cm below the armhole at the side seam. Separate the cup piece and close the bust dart and the front dart.
Front and Back Pattern
Mark the neck line 3 cm above the closed frontdart and draw the neck line and the shoulder strap towards the bust dart line. Mark the shoulder strap 2.5 cm wide and draw the shoulder seam at right angles. Lower the armhole 2 cm and draw the new
armhole. Mark the waist yoke 11.5 cm above and 16 cm below the waist at the centre front. Measure 5 cm up and 5.5 cm down along the front dart legs. Connect these points with a guide line between the dart legs for a smooth seam transition. The waist yoke ends 3 cm above and below the waist at the side seam. Draw the peplum hem from the centre front to the side seam around 18 cm below the waist line seam. Mark the cutting lines for the hem extension as shown in the illustration.
Measure the distance from the front armhole to the shoulder strap and transfer this amount to the back shoulder seam. Lower the armhole 2 cm and draw the new back armhole. Draw the shoulder strap seam 2.5 cm wide perpendicular to the armhole. At the back waist dart, square up and down and mark the waist yoke 6 cm above and 7.5 cm below the waist. Draw the waist yoke to the centre back and to the side seam as shown in the illustration.
Mark the back neck line 10 cm above the waist yoke at the centre back and draw the back neck line. Draw the back style seam from the waist yoke to the back armhole notch. On the side seam, measure 5 cm from the waist yoke downward and draw the leg shape to the crotch width. Mark the back peplum 2 cm longer than the crotch at the centre back and 18 cm wide at the side seam. Draw the peplum hem and mark the cutting lines for the hem extension as shown in the illustration.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Trace a copy of all pattern pieces. Close all darts. Mark the gathering width 4 cm away from the bust dart legs. Slash and spread the peplum pieces 4 cm each cutting line at the hem. Draw the side seam straight towards the hem. Blend the hem line. Blend the seam lines at the peplum seam. Mark the grain line.
Halter Body with Lace Inserts(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)
Jump Suit with Fork Darts(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)
Jump Suit with Waist Yoke(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)
Jump Suit with Cups and Elastic Waistband(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing A. Wenzel)