Pattern Construction for Men’s Denim Jackets
The denim jacket is straightforward and a fantastic option to have for its versatility. The original denim look has expanded into different styles, colours and trends. Sometimes the denim jacket is cool, sometimes formal. Jackets in the 90s look are celebrating their comeback once again. We offer a step by step guide for the pattern construction of a men’s denim jacket in trucker style.
Pattern Construction for a Denim Jacket
Template: Basic narrow denim jacket block, Size. 50 (page 98 in the book HAKA Schnittkonstruktion Jacken)
- Turndown collar
- Quilted button placket
- Breast pockets with flaps
- Side zipper pockets
- Waistband with adjustable straps
- Sleeve with cuff and vent
- Trim the hem parallel to the new model length of 60 cm and around the waistband width of 4.5 cm.
- Lower the neck 0.5 cm at the centre back, 1 cm at the shoulder and 1.5 cm at the centre front and redraw.
- For the yoke, draw an angle line 11 cm below the neck hole and draw the fitted seam with a slight curve towards the armhole.
- For the dividing seams, draw two guidelines: from 1/4 scye depth to the hem at a distance of back width ./. 2 cm from the centre back and 3 cm or 1.5 cm behind the pitch line. Draw both dividing seams with a drop of 1 cm at the waist.
- Form the hemline with a nice transition from the back to the front on the newly created side panel
- Add a 2 cm wide overlap at the front edge and mark the stitching width for the buttons at 5 cm from the edge.
- Set the first two buttonholes as shown and draw the front yoke 1 cm below the second buttonhole to the 1/4 scye depth point on the armhole.
- Put a short piece of waistband with a centre buttonhole on the hem and distribute the remaining buttonholes evenly.
- Place the flap 2.5 cm behind the stitching line and draw in a welt pocket and the pocket stitch.
- Construct the side pocket and the pocket pouch stitch as illustrated.
- Construct the waistband with a width of 4.5 cm and the length from the bodice. Mark overlap, buttonhole and seam positions.
- Construct a tab with two adjustable buttons from the side seam towards the centre back. The grainline runs at an angle to the waist or chest circumference line on the front and side pattern. On the back pattern the grainline runs along the seam in the centre back. and at the yoke along the break.
Collar and sleeves
- Draw a horizontal baseline. Measure the new back and front neck hole and add both measurements.
- From the starting point measure 1/2 of the neck hole width to the left, square 1 cm upwards at the beginning and end. Divide the starting line into three and draw the collar line as shown in the illustration.
- Measure 3 cm for the collar stand and 5 cm for the collar width upwards and square out to the left at the centre back. Lengthen the 2.5 cm horizontally as illustrated and square 8 cm upwards at the front. Draw the front edge as illustrated.
- Finish the collar edge as shown. Verify the collar length and blend parallel to the centre back if necessary.
instructions for the pattern construction
Further instructions for pattern construction and sewing patterns for jeans, denim jackets and other models in denim can be found in our online shop.