Dress Shirts for Musicians/Conductors with a Belly Figure
Find the full article in the Rundschau for men 1/2.2018.
Basic Dress Shirt Block for a Belly Figure
Front and Back Pattern
Starting at the neck point (W), measure the scye depth (Rh), the back waist length (Rl), the hip depth (Ht) and the length (Lg) downward on a
vertical line. Square left from all points. The vertical line is also the centre back line. Measure the neck width plus 1 cm from the neck point (W) to the left and square up 2 cm. Square left at the neck Point into an upward curve and draw the back neckline. On the chest line, measure the back width to the left, square up from this point and measure ¼ scye Depth upward. Square out to the left 1.5 cm. Reduce the slant of the narrower shoulder compared to the normal construction, the amount for the slanted position must be reduced slightly. Mark the shoulder
slope with 2.3 cm. Draw a guideline and lengthen it 1.5 cm to the outside. Shift the shoulder seam 2 cm to the front. Draw a parallel line 2 cm above the shoulder and extend the neckline. Calculate the pattern width from the centre back to the side seam with ¼ of the chest girth + ¼ of the total wearing ease. Along the chest line, measure this amount from the centre back to the left and square down for the position of the sideseam. Calculate the difference between the chest girth and the waist girth (here 120 cm – 114 cm = 6 cm). Mark 1/8 of this amount (= 0.75 cm) as extension at the waist and draw the side seam from the chest line over this point to the hem. Divide the back hemline as shown in the illustration. Raise the hem 4 cm at the side and draw the back hemline as shown. Draw the back armhole.
Measure 9 cm from the neck point (W) downward and square left from the centre back to the back width line. Square up from the midpoint of this line and draw the shoulder dart with 1.5 cm intake. Mark a gap between the back and front pattern and square down. On the chest line, measure the pattern width ¼ of the chest girth + ¼ of the total wearing ease to the left. Square up and down for the centre front. Measure the chest width from the centre front to the right and square up and down to the hipline (=front pitch line). From the chest line, measure ¼ scye width and the armhole depth upward. Verify the scye width by adding sections A and B. Add 1/4 of the chest/waist difference (=1.5 cm) as extension at the centre front. Draw the centre front to the armhole height and extend it to the hem. This results in additional ease at the chest. From the intersection with the centre front, measure the neck width to the right and the neck width plus 2 cm downward. Connect both points with a guideline and draw the front neckline as shown in the illustration. Mark the front shoulder slope with 4.2 cm and draw a line to the neck point. Relocate the shoulder seam 2 cm to the front. Draw a parallel line 2 cm below the front shoulder.
Measure the back shoulder width and transfer this amount to the front shoulder line. Draw the front armhole from the shoulder width over the ¼ scye width to the side seam. Add 1/8 of the chest/waist difference (=0.75 cm) to the side seam at the waist. Draw the side seam from the chest line over this point to the hem. Measure the back side seam and transfer this length to the front. Divide the hem as shown, draw a guideline to the raised side seam and shape the front hemline as shown. Verify the amount of ease included at the chest, waist and hipline. Cut out all pattern pieces. Compare all seam lengths and examine the transitions at jointed seam lines.
Tuxedo Shirt with Tuck Pleats
Template: Basic Dress Shirt Block for Belly Figure for Conductors
Front and Back Pattern
Add 1.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front for the 3 cm buttonstand at the left front pattern. Mark the stitching line the same distance
to the inside and mirror the buttonstand three times to the outside. Fold the buttonstand outward, stitch in the finished width and then
press it back to the front (see also cross section illustration). For the right side, copy and Mirror the front part. Add only two times 3 cm to the
overlap of 1.5 cm. Press the buttonstand twice and sew the buttons through all layers. Add less width for the overlap and buttonstand if the buttonstand is topstitched (here 1.2 cm). Mirror the neckline for the upper edge of the buttonstand. Mark the upper button 6 cm below the neckline and mark all other buttons with 9.2 cm distance. Mark the two tuck pleats 2.5 cm away from the buttonstand and 2.5 cm apart (shown on the left front). Cut through the front pattern along the pleat lines and spread 3 cm intake each pleat line. Mirror the neckline over the pleat lines and draw the new seamlines (shown on the right front). Mark the grainline parallel to the front edge. Back pattern and sleeves with cuffs are not shown here. They are taken from the basic cut. Mark the grainline parallel to the centre back and perpendicular to the elbow line.
On a horizontal baseline, measure ½ of the neckline length and square up for the centre front and centre back. Along the centre back, measure 0.7 cm upwards and then 3.8 cm for the collarstand. Measure 1.2 cm for the collar roll and 4.5 cm for the collar width. Square out to the left from all points. Add 1.5 cm overlap to the centre front and raise the collar 1.4 cm at the front. Draw the collar seam over the ¼-point on the baseline. Draw the centre front perpendicular to the collar line 3.3 cm wide. Measure the collar width from the centre front upwards and measure around 1 cm to the right. Complete the collar shape as shown. Mark the position of the buttonhole centered on the collarstand. Check the collar length and compare to the neckline. Adjust at the centre back if necessary.