Plissé Skirt
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(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)
Facts about Plissé
Plissée = French. “folded”, “to pleat”, “pleating”,
Pleats transform a simple design into a creative model. Plissé manufactures give the fabric the right form. In the case of sunburst pleats, the hem is finished after the pleating is done. Once the garment has hung a certain amount of time, the exact length is determined with the skirt marker. The permanency of the pleats depends on the quality of the fabric and must be taken into account at the time of purchase. The manufacturer or mercer does not give a guarantee.
Basic Principle of Chemical Technical Pleating
Artificially formed pleats due to pressure, high temperature and humidity (water vapour)
Other manufacturing methods:
- Woven Plissé
- Plissé manufactured on warp knitting machines
- Plissé manufactured flat bed knitting machines
(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)
Cutting of Sunburst Pleated Fabric / Umbrella Styles
Cutting of Sunburst Pleated Fabric / Umbrella Styles
Depending on the fabric and the desired width of the skirt, you should clarify the shape of the skirt before cutting:
- Whole circle
- Three-quarter cirlce
- Half Circle
When cutting to size, fabric can be saved by arranging the patterns accordingly (as shown in the picture and only possible with plain or irregularly patterned fabrics).
Whole circle
The skirt consists of 2 half circle. The radius (see sketch) must be 18 cm. The waist width of the pleated skirt is 1.13 m and must be kept to the waist width.
Fabric consumption: four times the skirt length + 72 cm For short skirt lengths under 52 cm and 1.40 m fabric width two times the skirt length + 36 cm.
Three-quarter circle
The skirt consists of two parts, a total of three quarters of a plate. Cutting is only possible with a finished pattern sheet or a self-made cut.
Half circle
The skirt consists of half a circle. The radius (see sketch) depends on the waist size.
Examples:
Waist size – radius
70 cm – 22 cm
72 cm – 23 cm
75 cm – 24 cm
78 cm – 25 cm
82 cm – 26 cm
85 cm – 27 cm
88 cm – 28 cm
91 cm – 29 cm
The skirt can be cut exactly to the waist measurement. It fits smoothly around the waist.
Fabric consumption: double skirt length + double radius.
Group of pleats:
Pleats of 1 or 1.5 cm in width arranged in groups with 4 or 8 cm space after a group of 5 pleats. Fabric consumption: two and a half times hip width.
Flat Pleats – Knife Pleats and Variations
Made from a straight piece of fabric, the individual panels of fabric can be attached to each other, but the skirt is not completly sewn together. The hem is finished before pleating. Fabric consumption: triple hip width.
Small Knife Pleats
In 2 and 5 mm width; used for flounces etc.
Knife Pleats with smaller Pleat Depth
Mostly used for economical reasons to save fabric. The pleat depth does not exceed the full pleat width (visual space between outside folds). Fabric consumption: two and a half times hip width.
Cartridge Pleats
Created from standing folds of 1 and 2 cm width. Especially for sleeves etc.; fabric consumption approx. two and a half times the width.
Accordion Pleats
Of 2 to 6 cm. Fabric consumption: triple hip width.
(Inverted) Box Pleats
The visible space between outside fold ranges from 1.5 to 3 cm in width. The pleat underlay measures 3 to 6 cm (= pleat depth from 1.5 to 3 cm).
Pattern Plissé and Pleated Skirt
Details of the Plissé Skirt
- skirt from half plate
- Sunplissee
- single skirt waistband
Size Chart
Fabric Recommendations
Natural fibres, such as silk, are not suitable for pleating because the folds cannot be permanently fixed. Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, retain their shape permanently.
Details Pleated Skirt
- panelled skirt
- pleats all around
- single skirt waistband
Size Chart
Fabric Recommendation
Heavier fabrics made of cotton and wool can be pleated well, lighter fabrics like silk and satin are rather unsuitable for this. Pleated skirts made of checked fabric or leather are also a big trend at the moment.
Details Skirt with Pleats and Yoke
- skirt with yoke
- darts in the yoke
- plaited pleats
- without waistband
Size Chart
Fabric recommendation
Heavier fabrics made of cotton and wool can be pleated well, lighter fabrics like silk and satin are rather unsuitable for this. Pleated skirts made of checked fabric or leather are also a big trend at the moment.
