Product: Metric Patternmaking for Skirts & Trousers
Metric Patternmaking for Skirts & Trousers
Metric Patternmaking for Skirts & Trousers

Plissé Skirt

 

(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)

 

Further construction details can be found in the reference book  Atelier – Fachwissen aus der Praxis Teil 1.

In der Rundschau für Internationale Damenmode 10/2016 we tell a story about a plissé dress by Chanel being created in the Parisian plissee studio Lognon. On the enclosed pattern sheet you will find a plissé skirt/half circle, an all around pleated skirt, and a pleated skirt with yoke (in sizes 36 – 46).

 

Facts about Plissé

Plissée = French. “folded”, “to pleat”, “pleating”,

Pleats transform a simple design into a creative model. Plissé manufactures give the fabric the right form. In the case of sunburst pleats, the hem is finished after the pleating is done. Once the garment has hung a certain amount of time, the exact length is determined with the skirt marker. The permanency of the pleats depends on the quality of the fabric and must be taken into account at the time of purchase. The manufacturer or mercer does not give a guarantee.

Plisserock nähen(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)

Basic Principle of Chemical Technical Pleating

Artificially formed pleats due to pressure, high temperature and humidity (water vapour)

Other manufacturing methods:

  • Woven Plissé
  • Plissé manufactured on warp knitting machines
  • Plissé manufactured flat bed knitting machines

 

Zu sehen sind Plisserock, Plissekleid und eine plissierte Bluse(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)

 

Cutting of Sunburst Pleated Fabric / Umbrella Styles

Cutting of Sunburst Pleated Fabric / Umbrella Styles

Depending on the fabric and the desired width of the skirt, you should clarify the shape of the skirt before cutting:

  1. Whole circle
  2. Three-quarter cirlce
  3. Half Circle

 

 

 

Pattern for Circle Skirt

When cutting to size, fabric can be saved by arranging the patterns accordingly (as shown in the picture and only possible with plain or irregularly patterned fabrics).

 

 

Pattern for Circle Skirt

Whole circle

The skirt consists of 2 half circle. The radius (see sketch) must be 18 cm. The waist width of the pleated skirt is 1.13 m and must be kept to the waist width.

Fabric consumption: four times the skirt length + 72 cm For short skirt lengths under 52 cm and 1.40 m fabric width two times the skirt length + 36 cm.

Plisserock nähen

 

Three-quarter circle

The skirt consists of two parts, a total of three quarters of a plate. Cutting is only possible with a finished pattern sheet or a self-made cut.

 

Half circle

The skirt consists of half a circle. The radius (see sketch) depends on the waist size.

Examples:

Waist size – radius

70 cm – 22 cm

72 cm – 23 cm

75 cm – 24 cm

78 cm – 25 cm

82 cm – 26 cm

85 cm – 27 cm

88 cm – 28 cm

91 cm – 29 cm

 

The skirt can be cut exactly to the waist measurement. It fits smoothly around the waist.

Fabric consumption: double skirt length + double radius.

Group of pleats:

Pleats of 1 or 1.5 cm in width arranged in groups with 4 or 8 cm space after a group of 5 pleats. Fabric consumption: two and a half times hip width.

 

 

Plisseerock nähen

 

 

Flat Pleats – Knife Pleats and Variations

Made from a straight piece of fabric, the individual panels of fabric can be attached to each other, but the skirt is not completly sewn together. The hem is finished before pleating.  Fabric consumption: triple hip width.

 

Plissee Stoff

Small Knife Pleats

In 2 and 5 mm width; used for flounces etc.

Knife Pleats with smaller Pleat Depth

Mostly used for economical reasons to save fabric. The pleat depth does not exceed the full pleat width (visual space between outside folds).  Fabric consumption: two and a half times hip width.

 

 

Plissee Stoff

Cartridge Pleats

Created from standing folds of 1 and 2 cm width. Especially for sleeves etc.; fabric consumption approx. two and a half times the width.

 

 

Plissee Stoff

Accordion Pleats

Of 2 to 6 cm. Fabric consumption: triple hip width.

 

 

Plissee Stoff

(Inverted) Box Pleats

The visible space between outside fold ranges from 1.5 to 3 cm in width. The pleat underlay measures 3 to 6 cm (= pleat depth from 1.5 to 3 cm).

 

Product: Metric Patternmaking for Skirts & Trousers
Metric Patternmaking for Skirts & Trousers
Metric Patternmaking for Skirts & Trousers

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