M. Müller & Sohn Magazine 7-8.2021Professional Magazine for Fashion and Pattern Making // Women Trousers // Draping a Jacket // Martial Arts Clothing // Mao Jacket // Fitting Problems: Dress Shirt
The magazine specialized in fashion and pattern making is published ten times a year as a turnaround edition with topics on women’s and men’s fashion. The magazine is available for download in English. Each issue of M. Müller & Sohn magazine contains an enclosed sewing pattern.
On the women’s fashion pages this time we show the new pants to the current utility trend. Inspired by work and military clothing, the utility look stands for uncomplicated, functional fashion with cargo pockets, zippers and design elements such as rivets, latches and buckles. Especially when it comes to pants, cargo and utility are a recurring trend and this season the casual pants are omnipresent as well. In the interview on page 6, the 25-year-old costume designer in training Clara Merkel explains the setbacks she faced in the Corona crisis and what these circumstances do to a young person. Below you will find the continuation of the article on draping a jacket with sleeves. The pattern technique is about ladies’ pants. You’ll find instructions for pattern construction of four different pants: the sporty cargo pants with a hem tab as a special eye-catcher, the wide Marlene pants with patch pockets, the pleated pants as an elegant classic and finally, for the extravagant touch, a model in 3D pleat look. In the portrait on page 28, Anna Blume-van Landeghem from the fashion label lila Landeghem explains what lies behind the elaborate handwork of quilting.
On the men’s fashion pages we show you the runway trend of the current men’s fashion: the creative interpretation of the double breasted suit. The look of the superimposed front parts is not determined by two parallel rows of buttons, but is dominated by concealed button plackets, single buttons, buckles or tie belts. This design gives what is actually a very classic suit jacket a wrap-around look and thus a casual touch. Under the heading Design + Trade, the 140-year history of the buyers’ cooperative “Orag” in Munich as a contact point for professionals in the tailoring industry is described. After that you can read about the importance of the short jacket with the small stand-up collar. In Europe known as the Mao Jacket, the jacket, known in China as the Sun Yatsen Suit, is a symbol of a new age in two ways. Below you will find a pattern construction for the Mao jacket. In the column Fashion is Political, author Ronja Ebeling looks at the problems of garment waste and overproduction and the textile industry’s struggle to find solutions. In the pattern technique we show different models of martial arts clothing. You will find pattern constructions for a Jodo jacket and pants, kickboxing pants, boxer shorts and Kendo pants. Finally, the pattern technique deals with fitting problems of a men’s shirts.
The enclosed pattern contains two business dresses for women (in European sizes 36 – 46).
The topics (ladies) at a glance:
- Modern Utility
Stage + Costume
- Costume designers of tomorrow
- Jacket with draped sleeve (Part 2)
- Quilt work by lila Landeghem
The topics (mens) at a glance:
- Neo double breasted
Design + Trade
- Orag Munich
- A garment with significance
- Mao Jacket
Editorial Team’s Tips
- Streaming, TV and Event Recommendations
- Fashion’s waste problem
- Martial Arts Clothing
- Fitting Problems: Dress Shirt