M. Müller & Sohn Magazine 10.2023Professional Magazine for Fashion and Pattern Making // Women`s Historical Accessories // Froschgoscherl Lining // Grading: Men’s Raglan Coat // Pattern Sweatshirts
The magazine specialized in fashion and pattern making is published ten times a year as a turnaround edition with topics on women’s and men’s fashion. The magazine is available for download in English. Each issue of M. Müller & Sohn magazine contains an enclosed sewing pattern.
In this issue you will find inspiration for the design of the elegant business two-piece on the designer look pages of women’s fashion. Costume and suit come with plenty of creative design elements and can be found in all the latest collections on the international runways. In the following portrait, we introduce the weaver Maike Weyrich. The master weaver has learned from scratch how to make fabrics by hand. On a handloom that is over 100 years old, she produces modern fabrics in the traditional way. This is a new interpretation of an old craft. In the pattern technique, we focus on the inconspicuous but extremely significant details of historical fashion. We will show pattern construction for a selection of understructures and accessories from the 18th and 19th centuries. Afterwards you will learn how to work the Froschgoscherl, a lining variation that originally comes from the milliner’s craft. This method is inspired by the smock work of traditional costume. The most impressive thing about the lining solution is the shape, because the lining clings to the inside of the hat as if by itself thanks to the smock stitch. Under the section “Voices from the trade”, we talked to ladies’ tailor Magdalena Groher about the future of the tailoring trade and training in the trade. In the interview, she told us what makes the craft so special for her and what changes she would like to see at the same time.
On the designer look pages of men´s fashion, we show current designs of the men’s suit, with style elements of fine formal dress. The opportunities to wear a dinner jacket are rare and a strict dress code, such as black tie or white tie, is also on the agenda for very few. So it’s all the better that elements of the fine formal suit are constantly being revisited, creating combinations that are also suitable for going out in a less strict form. Afterwards, we give an overview of the programme of the European Master Tailor Congress, which is due to take place in St. Gallen in 2024 and is a must for the crème de la crème of bespoke and cuture tailoring. The grading scheme shown in the pattern technique is a high-necked coat with side seam and two-piece raglan sleeve. However, it is also suitable for grading a one-piece raglan sleeve with shoulder dart or for raglan sleeves with detached underarm. You can read about the fabric with two faces, the doubleface, its properties and how best to sew it on the two following pages. The next article is about how new working time models are becoming increasingly important in the crafts. We enter into dialogue with Maren Ulbrich, owner of the management consultancy “Handwerksmensch”. She manages projects for company-specific personnel and change processes in craft businesses. To facilitate the introduction of the 4-day-work week, she has developed an 8-step model with which the flexible working hours model can be introduced step-by-step and implemented successfully. Finally, we close with a focus on the topic of artificial intelligence (AI) in the skilled crafts sector. Keeping up with the technological innovations of the time and integrating them into the business can not only relieve the workload, but increasingly also be a competitive factor. Here you will find a small insight into the wide world of AI.
The enclosed pattern contains four sweatshirts in European sizes 36 – 50).
This issue contains 60 pages.
The topics (women´s) at a glance:
- Suit Attraction
- Maike Weyrich
- Historical Accessories
- Froschgoscherl Lining
Voices from the Trade
- Future with Perspective
The topics (men’s) at a glance
- Tuxedo Vibes
- European Master Tailor Congress 2024
- Grading: Raglan Coat
Industry + Craft
- New Work in the Tailoring Trade
- AI in tailoring
Editorial Team’s Tips
- Book, podcast and exhibition recommendations