M. Müller & Sohn Magazine 04.2023Professional Magazine for Fashion and Pattern Making // Basic Pattern Blocks for Children’s Clothing // Lappel Collar Sewing // Grading: Unisex-Jacket & Bermudas // Bobbin lace from Talitha Wolf // Pattern Blazer with Bodice Details
The magazine specialized in fashion and pattern making is published ten times a year as a turnaround edition with topics on women’s and men’s fashion. The magazine is available for download in English. Each issue of M. Müller & Sohn magazine contains an enclosed sewing pattern.
On the designer look pages of women’s fashion, we present floral miracles from the catwalk. Couturiers have always loved to draw on floriography, the language of flowers, which was at its peak especially in the Victorian era. Whether with opulent appliqués, draping or with beaded or tambour embroidery: Designers let flowers speak. We continue with a craft that has almost fallen into oblivion these days: lace-making. Talitha Wolf, a trained tailor and wardrobe mistress, creates wonderful masterpieces of bobbin lace in her atelier. In the Pattern technique you will find instructions on constructing basic pattern blocks for children’s clothing. We show the basic pattern blocks of a child’s leggings in size 98, a skirt and a divided skirt in size 110, a dress in size 122, asinglet, a waist slip and a long-sleeved shirt in size 128 and a blouse in size 134. Then you will find sewing instructions for a lapel collar. Step by step, we show you how to professionally work the collar, lapel, crochet seams and the entire garment in pictures and text.
On the menswear designer look pages we show jumpsuits for men. If you’re thinking of wearing a jumpsuit, there’s plenty of choice at the moment. It doesn’t have to be an eccentric and iconic model like Elvis’ from the 60s. Casual versions of the one-piece are currently in vogue. Afterwards, we celebrate the beauty of individuality. Nora Dietrich and Hans Kock of dietrich + kock have found a way to overcome the great differences in patterns between women’s and men’s tailoring, to construct patterns for garments that both men and women can wear and thus to move the construct of gender into the background. How they succeed in doing this and how they break down the patriarchal gender structures in fashion is something they revealed to us exclusively in an interview. In the pattern technique we show the grading of a unisex jacket and bermuda trousers. Then, in the knowledge section, you can read interesting facts about the robust golden fibre jute. Jute has a long tradition in the production of sacks and bags, but has now also arrived in the fashion world, as the natural fibre is a more environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic fabrics. Page 24 continues with nature-based solutions for the fashion world: Friederike Hoberg and Birke Weber are in the process of developing fungus-based dyes with their project MycoColors, which is intended to secure the future of the fashion industry by means of a sustainable circular economy. Their hand-woven wool carpets, dyed with mushroom dyes, show that the natural alternatives are in no way inferior to synthetic colours in terms of diversity and luminosity.
The enclosed pattern blazer with bodice details contains a double breasted jacket with cup seams and a single breasted jacket with bodice closure (in European sizes 36 – 50).
This issue contains 60 pages.
The topics (women´s) at a glance:
- Let the flowers speak
- Talitha Wolf
- Basic Pattern Blocks for Children’s Clothing
- Lapel Collar
Blazer with Bodice Details
The topics (men’s) at a glance
- In One Piece
- dietrich + kock
- Grading: Unisex-Jacket & Bermudas
- Robust Gold Fibre
Editorial Team’s Tips
- Book, podcast and exhibition recommendations