{"id":5787,"date":"2023-05-15T08:00:07","date_gmt":"2023-05-15T06:00:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=5787"},"modified":"2023-05-10T11:01:08","modified_gmt":"2023-05-10T09:01:08","slug":"fitting-for-a-bespoke-mens-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/fitting-for-a-bespoke-mens-jacket\/","title":{"rendered":"Fitting for a Bespoke Men\u00b4s Jacket"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<span class=\"ee-has-fotocredit alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12448 \" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Masssakko-naehen.jpg\" alt=\"Anleitung zur Anprobe von Ma\u00dfbekleidung\" width=\"787\" height=\"943\" \/><span class=\"ee-fotocredit\">(Photo Credit: Prof. Hannes D\u00f6llel)<\/span><\/span>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>This article is an excerpt from the german speaking book\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/shop\/haka-meisterschneider\/\"><em><strong> Schnitt-Technik HAKA Meisterschneider<\/strong><\/em><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><strong>There are different ways<\/strong> of creating fittings for bespoke garments. Some ateliers finish the edges and pockets of the jacket for the first fitting. The lining is stitched in, the side seams are already sewn or tacked and the shoulder seam is tacked. In the second sample, the side and shoulder seams are finished, the sleeves and the undercollar are tacked. This is followed by the finishing and final fitting of the finished jacket. This sequence of processing is rational and has proved its worth when the tailors are used to it and the customer&#8217;s measurements are unchanged. However, if there are long intervals between orders and there is no opportunity to take a check measurement, it is advisable to carry out the fitting as follows:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12424 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Anprobe-1-Masssakko-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Anleitung zur Anprobe von Ma\u00dfbekleidung\" width=\"886\" height=\"886\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The edge of the jacket is only tacked around, so you can calculate the overlap exactly after trying it on. The jacket shows from the front that the right hip needs to be tucked in a little looser.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12425 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Anprobe-2-Masssakko-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Anleitung zur Anprobe von Ma\u00dfbekleidung\" width=\"886\" height=\"886\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>On the back you can clearly see the right hanging side. This deviation can easily be blended by staking. Once all the results of the first fitting have been evaluated when marking out the pieces, the second sample can be made.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>This article is an excerpt from the german speaking book\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/shop\/haka-meisterschneider\/\"><em><strong> Schnitt-Technik HAKA Meisterschneider<\/strong><\/em><\/a><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12426 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Anprobe-3-Masssakko-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Anleitung zur Anprobe von Ma\u00dfbekleidung\" width=\"886\" height=\"886\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">Finished edges, pockets and lining are tacked in. Also side and shoulder seams of the jacket.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div id=\"product-3980\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data issue-product product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"M. M\u00fcller &amp; Sohn - Schnittmuster - HAKA - Sakkogrundschnitt Slim Fit\" data-product-sku=\"RX921028\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"28.00\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Jackets &amp; Coats\/Mens apparel\/Patterns\" data-product-variant=\"print\/digital\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">Pattern Slim-Fit Jacket Single Row Basic Block<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-slim-fit-jacket-single-row-basic-block\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"127\" height=\"180\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit-127x180.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: Pattern Slim-Fit Jacket Single Row Basic Block\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit-127x180.png 127w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit-283x400.png 283w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201811schnittmuster-sakko-slimfit.png 1240w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 127px) 100vw, 127px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-slim-fit-jacket-single-row-basic-block\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">In sizes 46 to 56<\/p>\t\t\t<div class=\"choose-product-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<ul class=\"grid-x tab-list\" role=\"tablist\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product active\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-digital\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Download<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-download\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-standard\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Print Version<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-book\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/ul>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"panels-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-digital\" id=\"type-digital\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">22,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-standard hide\" id=\"type-standard\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de \">28,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div>\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<!-- the ajax button function will override both buttons here: -->\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-digital\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"3980\" data-my_post_id=\"5787\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-standard hide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"3980\" data-my_post_id=\"5787\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12427 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Anprobe-4-Masssakko-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Anleitung zur Anprobe von Ma\u00dfbekleidung\" width=\"886\" height=\"886\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">The front and the back show a calm, harmonious drape. No disturbance can be seen in the fabric. At this stage, there is still the possibility of fine-tuning the fit or meeting one or two of the customer&#8217;s wishes. If the customer and tailor are satisfied with the second fitting, the jacket can be finished. In this example, the customer is known and the control measurements are available, including shoulder width and sleeve length. If this is not the case, pin the left sleeve or both sleeves for trial, pin them on the first or second trial and determine the correct sleeve length and sleeve position.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12428 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Anprobe-5-Masssakko-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Anleitung zur Anprobe von Ma\u00dfbekleidung\" width=\"886\" height=\"886\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">The final fitting shows whether the jacket fits perfectly. When the customer tries on the finished garment, it becomes exciting: does he like the whole look, does he feel comfortable, are he and the tailor satisfied with the work.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12429 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Anprobe-6-Masssakko-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Anleitung zur Anprobe von Ma\u00dfbekleidung\" width=\"886\" height=\"886\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">The back shows a comfortable, harmonious fall of the overlap and the waist. This good result is based not least on a proven pattern.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"product-2501\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data  product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Download Pattern Construction Men: Suit Jackets\" data-product-sku=\"RDHRS012\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"15.80\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Downloads\/Jackets &amp; Coats\/Men\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">PDF Download: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-making-suit-jackets-for-men\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-255x361.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: PDF Download: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-283x400.png 283w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-making-suit-jackets-for-men\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.<\/p><div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">15,80&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div><div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"2501\" data-my_post_id=\"5787\" role=\"button\"><\/div>\n\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p><strong>You can find various instructions for constructing a pattern to measure in our <a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-mens-apparel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>online shop.<\/em><\/a><\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"There are different ways of creating fittings for bespoke garments. Some  ateliers finish the edges and pockets for the first fitting. The lining is stitched in, the side seams are already sewn or tacked and the shoulder seam is tacked. At the second fitting, the side and shoulder seams are finished, the sleeves and the undercollar are tacked. This is followed by the finishing and final fitting of the finished jacket.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":5788,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5787","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5787","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5787"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5787\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5819,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5787\/revisions\/5819"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5788"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5787"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5787"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5787"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}