{"id":5310,"date":"2022-07-01T10:25:18","date_gmt":"2022-07-01T08:25:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=5310"},"modified":"2022-11-28T11:51:20","modified_gmt":"2022-11-28T10:51:20","slug":"tradition-with-future","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/tradition-with-future\/","title":{"rendered":"Tradition with Future"},"content":{"rendered":"

The M. M\u00fcller & Sohn technical school moves to Hamburg<\/h3>\n

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\"M.
Full of self confidence: An apprenticeship at M. M\u00fcller und Sohn was considered an early entr\u00e9e to a successful professional career<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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The M. M\u00fcller & Sohn pattern-making system has now existed for 131 years. Over almost one hundred of these years, seventy of them under the aegis of father and son K\u00f6hler, the \u00bbM. M\u00fcller & Sohn, Fachschule f\u00fcr Mode und Schnitttechnik\u00ab (M. M\u00fcller & Sohn school for fashion and pattern technology) in D\u00fcsseldorf has very successfully prepared pattern makers, cutting technicians, directors and tailors for their professional careers. Michael K\u00f6hler is now handing over his life’s work and that of his father to the Ebner Media Group, the publishing house of reference books and content.<\/h4>\n

The system of the future\u00ab \u2013 that is an ambitious name for a new patternmaking system. But the Munich master tailor Michael M\u00fcller was to be proved right. The \u00bbM\u00fcller System\u00ab, as it was soon called, was and still is the cutting system of the future for custom tailoring and the clothing industry.<\/p>\n

The \u00bbM\u00fcller system\u00ab revolutionises the art of tailoring<\/h3>\n

The success story began in Munich in 1891. At the end of the 19th century, not least under the infuence of the emerging garment industry, systems were being tinkered to simplify and rationalise cutting. The construction system developed by Michael M\u00fcller, based on proportional calculation, brought a revolutionary innovation in thisfield, because it takes into account the various body deviations, is easy to use, saves time and is easy to learn. Another merit of the ingenious master tailor is to have summarised, standardised and scientifed the tailoring knowledge of his time with this system and the associated processing techniques.<\/p>\n

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\"The
The 1904 course: Thirteen years aft er the founding of the German Garment Academy, the \u00bbM\u00fcller system\u00ab has become firmly established<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The \u00bbM\u00fcller system\u00ab spread rapidly, promoted above all by his own tailoring school, the \u00bbDeutsche Bekleidungsakademie\u00ab (German Clothing Academy), and the specialist journals it published with fashion and cutting illustrations. The technical school, now renamed \u00bbZuschneideschule M. M\u00fcller & Sohn\u00ab, reached the peak of its development in the 1920s with branches in D\u00fcsseldorf, Hamburg, Hanover, Berlin, Frankfurt and Stuttgart as Vienna and Barcelona.<\/p>\n

New challenges<\/h3>\n

Thirty years later, the school is faced with the task of reorienting itself after the war years \u2013 with success. The garment industry has a lot of catching up to do, and ready-to-wear clothing needs
\nan effcient cutting system. In 1948, a certain Franzjosef K\u00f6hler joins M. M\u00fcller & Sohn as a specialist teacher. As part of the cutting school team, he adapts the \u00bbM\u00fcller system\u00ab to the new requirements. One of the most important tasks is the development of a practicable, time-saving grading system.<\/p>\n

In the mid-1950s, Franzjosef K\u00f6hler takes over the management of the D\u00fcsseldorf and Hamburg branches. The clothing sector is booming and with it M. M\u00fcller & Sohn. The \u00bbM\u00fcller system\u00ab becomes indispensable for many master and fashion schools as well as the garment industry. In the 1960s, the cutting school is the largest training institute for cutting technology and the training of pattern makers, cutting technicians and directors throughout Europe.<\/p>\n

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\"Technical
For the elimination of posture and figure problems, the M. M\u00fcller & Sohn patternmaking system provides solutions that are as convincing as they are practicable<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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M\u00fcller & Sohn D\u00fcsseldorf becomes independent<\/h3>\n

In 1982 Franzjosef K\u00f6hler becomes the owner of \u00bbM. M\u00fcller & Sohn, Fachschule f\u00fcr Mode und Schnitttechnik\u00ab with branches in D\u00fcsseldorf and Hamburg. At the same time, the school in Munich
\ncontinues to exist.<\/p>\n

Michael K\u00f6hler, Franzjosef K\u00f6hler’s son, remembers: \u00bbAt that time we were asked whether we wanted to rename M\u00fcller & Sohn D\u00fcsseldorf and Hamburg aftter the transformation into an independent company, for example K\u00f6hler & Sohn. That would have fi tted. But, of course, we didn’t do that. Because M. M\u00fcller & Sohn is not just a name, but a brand that is known throughout the textile industry and custom tailoring, that stands for quality, innovation and a demanding education that is consistently oriented towards the market and its requirements. Of course, you don’t give up this unique selling point.\u00ab<\/p>\n

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\"Grading
Michael K\u00f6hler explains the grading of a sleeve. With 230 teaching hours, the grading courses are a focal point of the teaching programme<\/span> (Photo Credit: \u00a9Photos Michael K\u00f6hler)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Friendly co-existence<\/h3>\n

So from now on, M. M\u00fcller & Sohn existed twice: in Munich and in D\u00fcsseldorf. A competitive situation? \u00bbNo\u00ab, assures Michael K\u00f6hler, \u00bbthere never was. We always had connections and good relations with Munich, none of us ‘poached’ on the other’s turf. On the contrary: when CAD systems for cutting technology became an issue, we agreed \u2013 Munich works with Gerber, we work with Lectra. So, we each had our own clientele.\u00ab<\/p>\n

Open to new developments and current topics<\/h3>\n

As early as 1891, Michael M\u00fcller had clearly recognised that it is the art of cutting that determines the essence of a garment and thus also forms the most important criterion for customer satisfaction. In one of his textbooks he wrote: \u00bbA great evil from which many professionals suffer is lack of clarity in the cutting of garments, and yet this art (as such we can confidently call it) is the first and most important foundation of our beautiful but laborious trade.\u00ab<\/p>\n

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\"Michael
\u00bbA great evil, from which many professional fellows suffer, is obscurity in the cutting of garments, and yet this art (as such we may confidently call it) is the first and chief foundation of our beautiful but laborious craft.\u00ab Michael M\u00fcller<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The art of cutting, that is what Michael K\u00f6hler has been doing for almost fifty years now. Like his father, he does it in the tradition of Michael M\u00fcller, and that means with an eye to the future. A cutting system must not only guarantee an optimal fit, it must also be able to integrate new developments in technology, new materials and current fashion trends.<\/p>\n

As early as the 1960s, grading courses were therefore included in the seminar programme as new essential teaching content. Since 1986, graduates of M. M\u00fcller & Sohn D\u00fcsseldorf have been trained on the cutting computer. Father and son K\u00f6hler also look abroad: since the 1960s and increasingly in the 1980s, courses abroad have taken place in Israel, Hungary, Portugal, Poland, the former Yugoslavia, Romania, Bulgaria, Denmark, Russia and Canada.<\/p>\n

Best career oportunities for graduates<\/h3>\n

\u00bbWith us, graduates of the courses get their driving licence, so to speak, as a basis for their later professional career,\u00ab says Michael K\u00f6hler, describing his teaching activities. \u00bbDriving, i.e. developing their own signature or helping to shape that of a company, is something they have to do later on their own as pattern makers or cutting technicians.\u00ab With such a \u00bbdriving licence\u00ab from M. M\u00fcller & Sohn D\u00fcsseldorf, you’re well on your way in your career. Boss, Windsor, Esprit, P&C, C&A, Dressler, Christian Berg, Strellson, Sportalm \u2013 these are just a few of the companies
\nwhose pattern and cutting departments are headed by graduates who went through Michael K\u00f6hler’s school.<\/p>\n

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\"Photography
\u00bbM. M\u00fcller & Sohn is not just a name, but a brand that is known throughout the textile industry and bespoke tailoring for quality, innovation and demanding training.\u00ab
Michael K\u00f6hler<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From D\u00fcsseldorf to Hamburg<\/h3>\n

After forty years of M. M\u00fcller & Sohn in D\u00fcsseldorf, another caesura in the more than 130-year success story of the M\u00fcller & Sohn pattern-making system is about to take place. Michael K\u00f6hler will retire from active working life and hand over the company to Ebner Media Group. \u00bbIt is time to hand over responsibility to someone else. With the transfer to Ebner Media Group, the school will now also be reunited with the trade magazine under the same name\u00ab, Michel K\u00f6hler looks to the future. \u00bbThe school’s move to Hamburg is not the main thing. What makes M. M\u00fcller & Sohn special is the knowledge we have acquired and which manifests itself in our teaching programmes and documents. We are currently in the process of handing over this knowledge and we could well imagine M. M\u00fcller & Sohn, Fachschule f\u00fcr Mode und Schnitttechnik also celebrating its 150th anniversary.\u00ab<\/p>\n

Time to say goodbye<\/h3>\n

Almost one hundred years of M. M\u00fcller & Sohn D\u00fcsseldorf, seventy of them under the management of Franzjosef and Michael K\u00f6hler \u2013 one can already speak of an era that comes to an end with the departure of Michael K\u00f6hler and at the same time ushers in a new beginning. Even if the focus is on the future, there is still a touch of melancholy when Michael K\u00f6hler says: \u00bbIt was a wonderful time.\u00ab<\/p>\n

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\"Members
Assembled competence: Members of the IACDE Germany at a symposium in the rooms of the school<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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What is the future of the technical school in Hamburg?<\/h3>\n

M. M\u00fcller & Sohn \u2013 as in the early days, this title <\/em>now once again unites the vocational school and <\/em>the trade magazine. Jasmin Clausen is responsible <\/em>for both areas as editor-in-chief and head of the <\/em>school. Ms Clausen, you have an enormous <\/em>amount of work ahead of you?<\/em><\/p>\n

Jasmin Clausen:<\/strong> We are in the process of shaping the transition, of course we are only at the beginning now. There is a lot that has to be done before we can start teaching. For example, planning the premises, equipping the classrooms, talking to lecturers. We are also looking for aff ordable accommodation for the students. The school must also be certifi ed with the employment agency so that future students can participate via education vouchers.<\/p>\n

Will the teaching programme be continued as before or will there be modifications?<\/em><\/p>\n

Jasmin Clausen:<\/strong> It is planned that all the courses that were off ered in D\u00fcsseldorf will also take place here in Hamburg. We will fi rst start with the pattern construction course for women’s and men’s wear and continue to work in parallel on the design of the individual and combination seminars, i.e. grading, fashion drawing, draft ing and much more. Of course, the right lecturers also have to be found.<\/p>\n

How is the continuity of the transition from D\u00fcsseldorf to Hamburg ensured?<\/em><\/p>\n

Jasmin Clausen:<\/strong> This is primarily about the content. Mr K\u00f6hler has handed over all the teaching material to us. We will use this to continue teaching with the contents and to continue running the school. Mr K\u00f6hler has offered to personally support this process of transition. We will gladly take up this offer.<\/p>\n

M. M\u00fcller & Sohn D\u00fcsseldorf has been the sole licence holder of the editing system until now. How will licensing be handled in the future?<\/em><\/p>\n

Jasmin Clausen:<\/strong> Ebner Media Group is now the sole owner of the licence for the M. M\u00fcller & Sohn pattern-making system. This means that schools, companies or even individuals may only teach using our editing system with a licence agreement. We will off er diff erent licence models. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at any time. In the coming issues of M. M\u00fcller & Sohn we will keep our readers informed about the current state of aff airs. K.H.Zonbergs<\/p>\n

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Pattern Pleated Trousers Basic Block<\/div><\/div>
\"Product:<\/div><\/a>Show Product Details<\/a><\/div>

In sizes 44 to 58.<\/p>\t\t\t

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