{"id":52,"date":"2023-10-20T08:00:11","date_gmt":"2023-10-20T06:00:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=52"},"modified":"2023-10-12T15:01:10","modified_gmt":"2023-10-12T13:01:10","slug":"double-breated-jacket-for-plussizes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/double-breated-jacket-for-plussizes\/","title":{"rendered":"Double-breasted Coat for Plus Sizes"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_2581\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2581\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/10\/plussize-mantel-naehen-muellerundsohn.jpg\" alt=\"Plus Size Fashion on the Runway.\" width=\"1575\" height=\"922\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/10\/plussize-mantel-naehen-muellerundsohn.jpg 1575w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/10\/plussize-mantel-naehen-muellerundsohn-300x176.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/10\/plussize-mantel-naehen-muellerundsohn-768x450.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/10\/plussize-mantel-naehen-muellerundsohn-1024x599.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/10\/plussize-mantel-naehen-muellerundsohn-255x149.jpg 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/10\/plussize-mantel-naehen-muellerundsohn-360x211.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1575px) 100vw, 1575px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Inspiration Runway: Plus Size Fashion at Tommy Hilfiger, Dolce &amp; Gabbana und Riani.<\/span> <span class=\"ee-fotocredit\"> (Photo Credit: \u00a9 CATWALKPIX.COM)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>The relations of chest, waist and hip are decisive<\/strong> for how the basic pattern block is set up.\u00a0As the size increases, the difference between the chest and hips and the waist decreases. The waist circumference therefore grows more than the chest and hip circumference. Before designing a pattern in plus size, the question always arises: Is it a figure with a strong chest or buttocks, or is the ratio balanced? In this article we will show you how to construct a pattern for a coat in plus size. You will find the complete article in the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/shop\/rundschau-fuer-internationale-damenmode-11-2016\/\">Damen-Rundschau 11\/2011<\/a>. For an english translation you can contact our <a href=\"kundenservice@ebnermedia.de\">customer service<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h2>Pattern Construction Double Row Jacket<\/h2>\n<p>Template: Basic Jacket Block in Size 44<\/p>\n<h3><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-761 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Doppelreiher-naehen_Vorder-Rueckenansicht-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\" pattern construction of a double row coat for ladies\" width=\"851\" height=\"709\" \/><\/h3>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Front and Back Pattern<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-759 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Doppelreiher-naehen_Schnitttechnik-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"The pattern construction of a double row coat\" width=\"1737\" height=\"1868\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Use a basic jacket pattern and a matching one-piece sleeve with overarm seam in size 44 as a template (see measurement chart). Mark the length at the centre back with 86 cm. Lower the neckline 3.5 cm at the shoulder and 1.5 cm at the centre back. Draw the new neckline. Extend the armhole on the front pattern 1 cm and raise the front shoulder 0.7 cm. Extend the armhole on the back pattern 1 cm and raise the back shoulder 1 cm. Draw the stylelines as shown in the illustration. Mark 0.7 cm intake at the back styleline for a better fit at the armhole. Equalize the seam lengths on the back pattern. Extend the sideseam 4 cm each side at the hem. Extend the hem 2 cm at each styleline. Blend the hemline on the finished pattern pieces. Shift the centre front 0.7 cm to the front at the hipline. Add 6 cm overlap parallel to the new centre front. Mark the buttonhole positions. Mark the beginning of the lapel break 1 cm above the upper button and mark pivot point Z. Draw a circular arc with pivot point Z over the lowered neck point and measure 2 x 1.5 cm for the collar stand (point K). Plot the neckline shape and the lapel as illustrated. Draw the side panels on the front and back pattern 8 cm wide.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Lapel Collar for Round Neckline<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-762 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Jacke-naehen_Aermelanlage-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"The pattern construction of a double row coat\" width=\"1118\" height=\"1247\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Separate the pattern pieces at the stylelines and close the bust dart. Blend the seamline. Mark the collar and the collar stand 9.5 cm wide<br \/>\nat the shoulder (1.5 cm collar stand, 8 cm collar width). Extend the centre back upward and draw a parallel line through the lowered neck point.<br \/>\nMeasure 2 x 2 cm at the centre back and 2 x 1.5 cm upwards at the neckline = point K1. Draw the neckline seam. Trace a copy of the upper back<br \/>\npattern with the attached collar stand.Place the copied back pattern on the front pattern with point K1 touching point K and the shoulder<br \/>\nseams overlapping 0.5 \u2013 1 cm at the collar width = K2. Mark the collar 5 cm wide at the centre back and finish the collar shape.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Finished Pattern Pieces<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-764 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Jacke-naehen_FertigeSchnittteile-MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"The pattern construction of a double row coat\" width=\"1972\" height=\"1292\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Copy and separate all pattern pieces. Complete overlapping sections. Copy the sleeve panels and the side panels. Copy the collar and the front facing. Open the cutting lines. Add 0.3 \u2013 0.5 cm roll width to the upper collar and the lapel depending on the material. Cut the front pattern with an attached lapel corner, so that not all seam allowances meet at the lapel break. Blend all seamlines. Mark the grainlines.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div id=\"product-2203\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data issue-product product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Schnittmuster DOB Jeans\" data-product-sku=\"RX970526\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"28.00\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Patterns\/Skirts &amp; Trousers\/Womens apparel\" data-product-variant=\"print\/digital\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">Pattern Jeans<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-jeans\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/pattern-jeans-muellerundsohn-255x361.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: Pattern Jeans\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/pattern-jeans-muellerundsohn-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/pattern-jeans-muellerundsohn-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/pattern-jeans-muellerundsohn-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/pattern-jeans-muellerundsohn-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/pattern-jeans-muellerundsohn-283x400.png 283w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/05\/pattern-jeans-muellerundsohn.png 1240w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-jeans\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">The pattern sheet contains a classic jeans and a mom jeans in size 36-46.<\/p>\t\t\t<div class=\"choose-product-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<ul class=\"grid-x tab-list\" role=\"tablist\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product active\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-digital\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Download<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-download\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-standard\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Print Version<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-book\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/ul>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"panels-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-digital\" id=\"type-digital\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">22,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-standard hide\" id=\"type-standard\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de \">28,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div>\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<!-- the ajax button function will override both buttons here: -->\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-digital\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"2203\" data-my_post_id=\"52\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-standard hide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"2203\" data-my_post_id=\"52\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p><strong>You can find many more pattern instructions and finished patterns for sewing plus size fashion in our online shop.<\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"The relations of chest, waist and hip are decisive for how the basic pattern block is set up.\u00a0As the size increases, the difference between the chest and hips and the waist decreases. The waist circumference therefore grows more than the chest and hip circumference. Before designing a pattern in plus size, the question always arises: Is it a figure with a strong chest or buttocks, or is the ratio balanced? In this article we will show you how to construct a pattern for a coat in plus size.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":2580,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,28,33],"tags":[200,196,79,187,243,132],"class_list":["post-52","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein","category-pattern-construction","category-plussize-tailoring","tag-diy-patterns","tag-jacket-pattern","tag-outerwear-for-women","tag-pattern-construction","tag-plus-size","tag-types-of-collars"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=52"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2013,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52\/revisions\/2013"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2580"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=52"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=52"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=52"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}