{"id":4814,"date":"2023-03-06T08:00:46","date_gmt":"2023-03-06T07:00:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=4814"},"modified":"2023-03-03T16:52:01","modified_gmt":"2023-03-03T15:52:01","slug":"pattern-construction-for-stand-up-collar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/pattern-construction-for-stand-up-collar\/","title":{"rendered":"Pattern Construction for Stand-up Collar"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Inspiration
Inspiration Runway: Creative stand-up collar designs on the catwalk by Aganovich, Galliano and Bora Aksu<\/span> (Photo Credit: \u00a9 CATWALKPIX.COM)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Depending on the length<\/strong> of the upper edge, a stand-up collar can be developed either close to or away from the neck. A collar shape close to the neck can be achieved by increasing the front edge of the collar. This reduces the length of the upper edge. A collar shape away from the neck can be achieved by increasing the centre back of the collar. This gives the upper edge more length. Always compare the lengths of collar line and neckline.<\/p>\n

You can find this and other collar constructions in the reference book “Hardcover Book: Metric Patternmaking for Jackets & Coats”.<\/p>\n

Metric Patternmaking for Jackets & Coats<\/div><\/div>
\"Product:<\/div><\/a>Show Product Details<\/a><\/div>

Instructions for Pattern Construction of Ladies' Fashion<\/p>

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126,80 \u20ac<\/div><\/div>
<\/div>
\n\t\t
<\/div>\n\t<\/div>TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n

Collar 1 –\u00a0 Mandarin Collar<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Lower the neckline 0 – 1 cm at the shoulder, 0 – 0.5 cm at the centre back and up to 2 cm at the centre front. Increase the front edge 3 – 4 cm and draw the curved collar line as shown in the picture.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Collar 2 – Broad Collar Close-Fitting To The Neck<\/h2>\n

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 <\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

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The increase at the front edge determines the fit at the neck. 2 – 3 cm increase is appropriate since this stand-up collar is broader than the Mandarin collar in construction 1. Lower the neckline 0 \u2013 1.5 cm at the shoulder, 0 \u2013 0.7 cm at the centre back and up to 2 cm at the centre front.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Collar 3 – Standing Straight Collar<\/strong><\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

The front edge is slightly increased so that the collar shows a better fit at the centre front. Lower the neckline 0 \u2013 1.5 cm at the shoulder, 0 \u2013 0.7 cm at the centre back and up to 2 cm at the centre front.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Collar 4 – Straight Collar Standing Away From The Neck<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

Depending on the amount of increase at the centre back, the length of the upper collar edge increases and the collar stands further away from the neck. Draw the curved collar line at right angles to the centre front and back.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Inspiration
Inspiration Runway: Creative collar designs on the runway by Zimmermann and Herm\u00e8s<\/span> (Photo Credit: \u00a9 CATWALKPIX.COM)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Collar 5 – Stand-Up Collar Drafted On The Front Pattern<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

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 <\/p>\n

Collar 6 – Built-Up Neckline – All In One With The Bodice<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

<\/h3>\n

Collar 7 – Built-Up Neckline At The Front Pattern<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Depending on the length of the upper collar edge, a collar tilts more or less towards the neck or stands out from the neck. A collar tilted towards the neck is achieved by raising the front centre of the collar. A collar that protrudes from the neck is the result of raising the back centre of the collar. For each collar, compare the length of the collar line with that of the neck hole.

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