![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/titel-1.png\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
This article shows the enlargement of a jacket with hood and zipper from size 128 to size 152 You will find this and other contents about grading children’s clothing in the reference book\u00a0Grading Women & Kids<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n This reference book focusses on the special subject of increasing and decreasing patterns in size according to the M. M\u00fcller & Sohn system \u2013 also known as GRADING.<\/p> The grading increment at the waist line is shown here but is however not necessary for this straight cut. The style seams are\u00a0not graded but could be if preferred. The jacket length increment is 17 mm per size. This amount can be changed depending\u00a0on preference and design. The grading increments are shown in table 9, 11 and 12.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n 1\u20132<\/strong> Scye depth increment = 16 mm. Measure this\u00a0amount perpendicular to the waist line at the centre\u00a0back and at the neck line.<\/p>\n 2\u20133<\/strong> Back width increment = 20 mm. Measure this amount\u00a0to the right at the neckline, at the style seam and at the hem.\u00a0Draw the centre back parallel to the basic pattern.<\/p>\n 2\u20134<\/strong> Neck point increment = 14 mm.\u00a0Calculation: Back width increment 20 mm – neck width\u00a0increment 6 mm = 14 mm. Measure the neck point increment\u00a0to the right and draw the new neckline using the basic\u00a0pattern as a template.<\/p>\n 5\u20136<\/strong> Shoulder increment = 14 mm. Place the basic pattern on\u00a0the new neck point 4 parallel to the centre back and transfer\u00a0the shoulder seam and mark the shoulder width (dashed line\/\u00a0point 5). Measure the shoulder width from the new\u00a0shoulder point 6 = dashed line\/point 7.<\/p>\n 7\u20138<\/strong> Sleeve length increment = 94 mm. Draw the new sleeve\u00a0hem parallel to the basic pattern. Draw the style seam using\u00a0the basic pattern as a template.<\/p>\n 9\u201310<\/strong> Jacket length increment 68 mm = 17 mm\u00a0per size. Lengthen the jacket 68 mm.<\/p>\n 10\u201311<\/strong> 1\/2 of the scye width increment = 6 mm. Add the 1\/2-scye-width increment parallel to the side seam.<\/p>\n 12<\/strong> 1\/2 of the sleeve hem width increment = 6 mm.<\/p>\n Add the sleeve hem width increment to be\u00a0able to draw the new side seam and sleeve\u00a0seam. First measure the original sleeve\u00a0hem (m).\u00a0Draw a parallel line with the same length (tr)\u00a0and mark the original width with a dashed\u00a0line.Extend the hem width by 6 mm and draw\u00a0the new sleeve seam curve to the side seam.<\/p>\n 13\u201314<\/strong> Back waist length \/waistline relocation\u00a0= 42 mm. Draw the new waist line parallel to\u00a0the basic pattern.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n 1\u20132<\/strong> Front waist length increment:\u00a024 mm.\u00a0Measure the front waist length increment\u00a0perpendicular to the waist line from the\u00a0neck point upwards.<\/p>\n 2\u20133<\/strong> Front neck point increment = 22 mm.\u00a0Calculation:\u00a0Chest width increment 28 mm – neck width\u00a0increment 6 mm = 22 mm. Measure this\u00a0amount to the front. Draw the new neck\u00a0line later with the neck line template.<\/p>\n 4\u20135<\/strong> Chest width increment = 28 mm.\u00a0Add the chest width increment parallel to\u00a0the centre front and extend upwards and\u00a0downwards.<\/p>\n 6\u20137<\/strong> Shoulder increment = 14 mm.\u00a0Place the basic pattern on the new neck point 3\u00a0parallel to the centre front and mark the\u00a0shoulder width (dashed line\/point 6). Measure\u00a0the shoulder increment and transfer the basic\u00a0shoulder width from the new point 7 (dashed\u00a0line\/point 8).<\/p>\n 8\u20139<\/strong> Sleeve length increment = 94 mm.\u00a0Extend the sleeve length. Draw the new sleeve\u00a0hem parallel to the basic pattern. Draw the\u00a0style seam using the basic pattern as a template.<\/p>\n 10\u201311<\/strong> Jacket length increment 68 mm =\u00a017 mm per size. Lengthen the jacket 68 mm.<\/p>\n 11\u201312<\/strong> 1\/2 of the scye width increment = 6 mm.\u00a0Add the . 1\/2-scye-width increment parallel to\u00a0the side seam.<\/p>\n 13<\/strong> 1\/2 of the sleeve hem width increment =\u00a06 mm. Add the sleeve hem width increment to\u00a0be able to draw the new side seam and sleeve\u00a0seam. First measure the original sleeve\u00a0hem (m). Draw a parallel line with the\u00a0same length (tr) and mark the original\u00a0width with a dashed line. Extend the\u00a0hem width by 6 mm and draw the new\u00a0sleeve seam curve to the side seam.\u00a0Measure and compare the seam length\u00a0with the back pattern. Equalize if\u00a0necessary.<\/p>\n 14\u201315<\/strong> Back waist length\/waistline\u00a0relocation = 42 mm. Draw the new\u00a0waist line parallel to the basic pattern.<\/p>\n 16\u201317<\/strong> Pocket entry.\u00a0Measure 3\/4 of the pocket entry increment\u00a0= 9 mm to the left and 1\/4 of the\u00a0pocket entry increment to the right.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\nPDF Download: Download Book Women + Kids Grading<\/div><\/div>![\"Product:](\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn-255x361.png\")
<\/div><\/a>Show Product Details<\/a><\/div>\n88,00 \u20ac<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\nGrading a Children’s Jacket with a Hood<\/h2>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/grafik1.png\")
<\/p>\nBack Pattern (1)<\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/grafik2.png\")
<\/p>\nFront Pattern (2)<\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/grafik2a.png\")
<\/p>\nSample_Pattern_Sheet<\/div><\/div>
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/grafik3.png\")
<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/07\/grafik4.png\")
<\/p>\n