{"id":388,"date":"2020-08-23T08:00:30","date_gmt":"2020-08-23T06:00:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=388"},"modified":"2020-08-20T12:03:48","modified_gmt":"2020-08-20T10:03:48","slug":"grading-trouser-patterns","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/grading-trouser-patterns\/","title":{"rendered":"Grading Trousers Patterns"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Draw the creaseline on the front and back pattern before grading the trouser pattern.<\/strong> Mark half of the width at the knee and at the hem. Connect both points with a straight line and extend the creaseline upward. Draw the knee line, the crotch line and the hipline perpendicular to the creaseline. Determine the position of the hip depth with 1\u204410 of half hip measurement plus 3 cm. On the back pattern, draw the hipline perpendicular to the slanted centre back.<\/p>\n

PDF Download: Download Book Women + Kids Grading<\/div><\/div>
\"Product:<\/div><\/a>Show Product Details<\/a><\/div>

This reference book focusses on the special subject of increasing and decreasing patterns in size according to the M. M\u00fcller & Sohn system \u2013 also known as GRADING.<\/p>

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Sizing information of the waist and hip measurements for the respective customers or target groups are required for grading trousers as well as skirts. These measurements are taken from existing size charts or developed as preferred and proportionally distributed. The width at the knee and at the hem is graded as required for the particular design. The trouser styles illustrated here in the basic size 38 have been already fitted and optimized. The patterns are without seam or hem allowances but with marker points as well as notches and the patterns are all labelled.<\/p>\n

You can find these grading instructions and many other variations in our german speaking book\u00a0 Gradieren DOB & KOB<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n

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The grading increments for skirts and trousers for the sizes 34-54 can be found in issue 06\/2010 on page 33.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Direction Indicators for Grading Ladies Trousers<\/h2>\n

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The illustrations show the exact angle for grading the body rise and the slant at the waist as well as at the centre front and centre back.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Calculation of the Hip Measurement for Proportional Increments<\/h3>\n

The nesting point for grading with proportional increments is marked in the middle of the pattern (the centre of the trousers is therefore unchanged). Measure the distance from the front and back creaseline to the sideseam as well as to the centre front and centre back. Divide these lines in tenths for the following values:<\/p>\n

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Front Trousers Pattern<\/h4>\n

Front sideseam: 7\u204410 of 1\u20444 hip girth difference<\/p>\n

Centre front: 4\u204410 of 1\u20444 hip girth difference<\/p>\n

Back Trousers Pattern<\/h4>\n

Back sideseam: 7\u204410 of 1\u20444 hip girth difference<\/p>\n

Centre back: 2\u204410 of 1\u20444 hip girth difference<\/p>\n

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Calculation of the Waist Measurement for Proportional Increments<\/h3>\n

Grade the waist at the centre front and centre back by the same amount as the hip to keep the seamlines as parallel as possible. The grade rules for the sideseam arise as a result of the remaining waist girth difference:<\/p>\n

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Front Trouser Pattern<\/h4>\n

Front sideseam: Remaining waist girth difference<\/p>\n

Centre front: 4\/10 of 1\/4 hip girth difference<\/p>\n

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Back Trouser Pattern<\/h4>\n

Back sideseam: Remaining waist girth difference<\/p>\n

Centre back: 2\/10 of 1\/4 hip girth difference<\/p>\n

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Grading a Ladie’s Trousers Pattern with Darts from Size 38 to Size 46<\/h2>\n

All key points for the grading are set and the increments can be calculated.<\/p>\n

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Increment Calculation<\/h4>\n

Increments according to the size chart from size 38 to size 46:<\/p>\n