{"id":361,"date":"2023-01-15T08:00:26","date_gmt":"2023-01-15T07:00:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=361"},"modified":"2023-01-09T11:16:46","modified_gmt":"2023-01-09T10:16:46","slug":"grading-skirts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/grading-skirts\/","title":{"rendered":"Grading Skirts"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_1282\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1282 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\u00a9 CATWALKPIX.COM\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-267x400.jpg 267w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-120x180.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-275x412.jpg 275w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing-255x382.jpg 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/Grading_Skirts_Pattern_Sewing.jpg 886w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Inspiration Runway: Victoria Beckham<\/span> <span class=\"ee-fotocredit\"> (Photo Credit: \u00a9 CATWALKPIX.COM)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<p>\n<p><strong>Increasing and decreasing patterns<\/strong> in size is not an easy task even within a CAD programme. It requires the ability to reason as well as technical knowledge. Thorough control of the system is absolutely necessary when grading design patterns. These articles are a great resource for experts. Grading is a special subject.<\/p>\n<p>To support beginners, this series also gives examples of grading basic block patterns. As for each new learning material, it is important to clear the first hurdle. Therefore, the structure of the grade rule tables is particularly emphasized. Only those who know how to calculate grading increments will later understand the various tables companies are working with. You can find this grading instruction and many other variations in our book <strong>Grading<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<div id=\"product-3850\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data  product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Download Book Women + Kids Grading\" data-product-sku=\"RDMS200037\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"88.00\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Childrens clothing\/Reference books\/Womens apparel\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">PDF Download: Download Book Women + Kids Grading<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/grading-women-kids\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn-255x361.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: PDF Download: Download Book Women + Kids Grading\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn-283x400.png 283w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/04\/gradieren-en-muellerundsohn.png 1575w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/grading-women-kids\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">This reference book focusses on the special subject of increasing and decreasing patterns in size according to the M. M\u00fcller &amp; Sohn system \u2013 also known as GRADING.<\/p><div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">88,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div><div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"3850\" data-my_post_id=\"361\" role=\"button\"><\/div>\n\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4471\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/ttl-1.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1090\" height=\"763\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The basic styles shown in their original size 38 have already been thoroughly tested and optimized. The pattern pieces contain no seam and hem allowances, but grade points and notches and are labelled. Waist and hip girth measurements of suitable customers or target groups must be determined before the patterns can be graded. The respective measurements are taken from existing size tables or developed from individual measurement charts.<\/p>\n<p>The grading increments are then determined from the difference in measurements between two sizes. Since the incremental growth of waist and hip measurements is often unequal, the grading can not be evenly at the waist and hip. The measure differences make it difficult to grade skirts, but that does not change the calculation formula for waist and hip. The examples based on the following grade rules show how to calculate the differences of waist and hip measurements.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Grading a Straight Skirt Pattern with Darts and Waistband from Size 38 to Size 36 and 34<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-5659\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN.png\" alt=\"Grading a skirt pattern\" width=\"1816\" height=\"1691\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN.png 1816w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN-300x279.png 300w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN-1024x954.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN-768x715.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN-1536x1430.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN-255x237.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN-360x335.png 360w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/2-1_EN-580x540.png 580w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1816px) 100vw, 1816px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Each size is drawn since there are two different waist and hip girth increments when grading down the skirt pattern.<\/p>\n<p>The grade rules are shown in the illustration. The hip grade for the respective size is \u00bc hip girth increment whereas the grade rule for the waist grade is \u00bc waist girth increment. Move the front and back darts parallel around half of the hip girth increment.<\/p>\n<p>Draw the new waistline and the side seam with the pattern template. Mark the length grade with 5 mm parallel to the hemline.<\/p>\n<p><strong>3a\u20134a<\/strong> Waistband grade is 1\u20442 waist girth increment for each size. Add the overlap without grading.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Grading Increment Calculations<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Based on size chart Gr. 38 \u2013 Gr. 34:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Waist girth: Size 38 to 36 = 40 mm<\/li>\n<li>Waist girth: Size 36 to 34 = 30 mm<\/li>\n<li>Hip girth: Size 38 to 36 = 30 mm<\/li>\n<li>Hip girth: Size 36 to 34 = 40 mm<\/li>\n<li>Skirt length: 5 mm + 5 mm = 10 mm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Grading a Straight Skirt Pattern with Darts and Waistband from Size 46 to Size 54<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-5660\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN.png\" alt=\"Grading a skirt pattern\" width=\"2272\" height=\"1795\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN.png 2272w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-300x237.png 300w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-1024x809.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-768x607.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-1536x1214.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-2048x1618.png 2048w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-255x201.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-360x284.png 360w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2023\/01\/3-1_EN-580x458.png 580w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2272px) 100vw, 2272px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It is advisable to test and optimize the fit of the skirt thoroughly in size 46 before grading to size 54.<\/p>\n<p><strong>1\u20132<\/strong> Hip girth: 1\u20444 hip girth increment = 50 mm.<\/p>\n<p><strong>3\u20134<\/strong> Waist girth: 1\u20444 waist girth increment = (65)60 mm.<\/p>\n<p>The hip curve in size 54 can be very flat or almost straight due to a larger waist measurement. To adjust the hip curve shape, reduce the waist increment around 5 mm at the side seam and sew the front and back darts with 5 mm less intake.<\/p>\n<p>Thus, a slightly stronger hip curve is achieved while the waist measurement remains the same. The grade point movement is horizontally at right angles to the centre front and back.<\/p>\n<p>Draw the new waistline after the dart is moved.<\/p>\n<p>Draw the new side seam.<\/p>\n<p><strong>5\u20136<\/strong> Dart grade: 1\u20442 hip girth increment = 25 mm.<\/p>\n<p>Move the front and back dart parallel.<\/p>\n<p><strong>7\u20138<\/strong> Length grade: 20 mm<\/p>\n<p>The length grade is parallel to the hemline.<\/p>\n<p><strong>3a\u20134a<\/strong> Waistband grade is 1\u20442 waist girth increment = 130 mm.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Grading Increment Calculations<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Based on size chart Gr. 46 \u2013 Gr. 54:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Waist girth: 65 mm + 65 mm + 65 mm + 65 mm =260 mm<\/li>\n<li>Hip girth: 50 mm + 50 mm + 50 mm + 50 mm = 200 mm<\/li>\n<li>Skirt length: 5 mm + 5 mm + 5 mm + 5 mm = 20 mm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"product-5520\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data  product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Download M. M\u00fcller & Sohn - Pattern Making - Men - Grading\" data-product-sku=\"RDMS220058\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"15.80 \" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Downloads\/Jackets &amp; Coats\/Men\/Trousers\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">PDF Download: Pattern Making Men's Grading\/Adjusting to another size group<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-making-mens-grading-adjusting-to-another-size-group\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445-255x361.jpg\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: PDF Download: Pattern Making Men&#039;s Grading\/Adjusting to another size group\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445-255x361.jpg 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445-212x300.jpg 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445-724x1024.jpg 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445-768x1087.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445-283x400.jpg 283w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445-452x640.jpg 452w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/shop_download_pattern_making_mens_grading_adjusting_size_group-e1665059796445.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-making-mens-grading-adjusting-to-another-size-group\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">In this e-dossier, you will find instruction on pattern construction for grading and adjusting clothing for men to another size group.<\/p><div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">15,80 &nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div><div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"5520\" data-my_post_id=\"361\" role=\"button\"><\/div>\n\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Further instructions for grading patterns, pattern construction and patterns for sewing can be found in our online shop.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Increasing and decreasing patterns in size is not an easy task even within a CAD programme. It requires the ability to reason as well as technical knowledge. Thorough control of the system is absolutely necessary when grading design patterns. These articles are a great resource for experts. Grading is a special subject.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":525,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,28,30],"tags":[89,200,79,187,87,179],"class_list":["post-361","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein","category-pattern-construction","category-women-tailoring","tag-basic-pattern","tag-diy-patterns","tag-outerwear-for-women","tag-pattern-construction","tag-pattern-grading","tag-skirt-pattern"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/361","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=361"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/361\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5646,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/361\/revisions\/5646"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/525"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=361"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=361"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=361"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}