{"id":361,"date":"2023-01-15T08:00:26","date_gmt":"2023-01-15T07:00:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=361"},"modified":"2023-01-09T11:16:46","modified_gmt":"2023-01-09T10:16:46","slug":"grading-skirts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/grading-skirts\/","title":{"rendered":"Grading Skirts"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Inspiration Runway: Victoria Beckham<\/span> (Photo Credit: \u00a9 CATWALKPIX.COM)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

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Increasing and decreasing patterns<\/strong> in size is not an easy task even within a CAD programme. It requires the ability to reason as well as technical knowledge. Thorough control of the system is absolutely necessary when grading design patterns. These articles are a great resource for experts. Grading is a special subject.<\/p>\n

To support beginners, this series also gives examples of grading basic block patterns. As for each new learning material, it is important to clear the first hurdle. Therefore, the structure of the grade rule tables is particularly emphasized. Only those who know how to calculate grading increments will later understand the various tables companies are working with. You can find this grading instruction and many other variations in our book Grading<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

PDF Download: Download Book Women + Kids Grading<\/div><\/div>
\"Product:<\/div><\/a>Show Product Details<\/a><\/div>

This reference book focusses on the special subject of increasing and decreasing patterns in size according to the M. M\u00fcller & Sohn system \u2013 also known as GRADING.<\/p>

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The basic styles shown in their original size 38 have already been thoroughly tested and optimized. The pattern pieces contain no seam and hem allowances, but grade points and notches and are labelled. Waist and hip girth measurements of suitable customers or target groups must be determined before the patterns can be graded. The respective measurements are taken from existing size tables or developed from individual measurement charts.<\/p>\n

The grading increments are then determined from the difference in measurements between two sizes. Since the incremental growth of waist and hip measurements is often unequal, the grading can not be evenly at the waist and hip. The measure differences make it difficult to grade skirts, but that does not change the calculation formula for waist and hip. The examples based on the following grade rules show how to calculate the differences of waist and hip measurements.<\/p>\n

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Grading a Straight Skirt Pattern with Darts and Waistband from Size 38 to Size 36 and 34<\/h2>\n

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Each size is drawn since there are two different waist and hip girth increments when grading down the skirt pattern.<\/p>\n

The grade rules are shown in the illustration. The hip grade for the respective size is \u00bc hip girth increment whereas the grade rule for the waist grade is \u00bc waist girth increment. Move the front and back darts parallel around half of the hip girth increment.<\/p>\n

Draw the new waistline and the side seam with the pattern template. Mark the length grade with 5 mm parallel to the hemline.<\/p>\n

3a\u20134a<\/strong> Waistband grade is 1\u20442 waist girth increment for each size. Add the overlap without grading.<\/p>\n

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Grading Increment Calculations<\/strong><\/p>\n

Based on size chart Gr. 38 \u2013 Gr. 34:<\/p>\n