{"id":3586,"date":"2023-04-03T08:00:20","date_gmt":"2023-04-03T06:00:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=3586"},"modified":"2023-03-30T17:05:10","modified_gmt":"2023-03-30T15:05:10","slug":"mens-tailor-as-unesco-cultural-heritage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/mens-tailor-as-unesco-cultural-heritage\/","title":{"rendered":"Men\u2019s tailor as UNESCO Cultural Heritage"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Gem\u00e4lde
The Tailor, 1570\u20131575, by Giovanni Battista Moroni from the National Gallery (London)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Falconry, charcoal burning, braiding and turnery – they all are on the UNESCO list of \u00bbIntangible Cultural Heritage in Germany\u00ab.<\/strong> Will the profession of men\u2019s tailoring soon be part of the UNESCO cultural heritage?<\/p>\n

If the \u00bbHerrenschneider\u00ab could make this decision, it could happen in about two years from now. That’s how long the national application procedure takes, with which \u00bbDie Herrenschneider\u00ab want to achieve recognition of their profession as a cultural-creating and preserving craft by UNESCO. The background for this initiative is the intention to bring back the origin of terms originally associated with the craft of custom tailoring, such as \u00bbmade to measure\u00ab, \u00bbmen’s tailor\u00ab etc., and to give them back the value they deserve. In other words, to stand out clearly and unambiguously from both made-to-measure clothing and the practice of \u00bbmade-tomeasure\u00ab, which basically uses this term to make an imposture.<\/p>\n

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Appreciation of traditional knowledge and skills<\/h2>\n

\u00bbWith the application for the Intangible Cultural Heritage in Germany we want to emphasize our craftsmanship and the cultural history behind it\u00ab, says Sandro Du\u0308hnforth, founding member of \u00bbDie Herrenschneider\u00ab. \u00bbWe have the great hope, if we are successful with the entry in the UNESCO list, that the profession of men\u2019s tailor with has more than thousand years of history and the professional title \u00bbHerrenschneider\u00ab could become a term worthy of protection. We would like to inform our customers and all interested parties: Real custom-tailoring is inconceivable without a long process of qualification, both in terms of the historical development of the craft and in terms of practical craft knowledge and the skills that a men’s tailor must acquire in order to exercise the profession.\u00ab<\/p>\n

Max Raabe as figurehead<\/h2>\n

The application of the \u00bbHerrenschneider\u00ab to the immaterial cultural heritage has found prominent supporters: Prof. Otto C. J. Niemann, author of numerous texts and books, among others on the history of the development of tailoring trade and on the cultural and technical history of tailoring, as well as the New York blogger and author Juhn Maing, who, after his research on the history of tailoring in Sicily, is now focusing on custom tailoring in Germany. Max Raabe, artist and art figure, could be won as a visible \u00bbfigurehead\u00ab for what men’s tailoring stands for. \u00bbWe wanted to show that without men’s tailoring, without tailor-made suits and tuxedos, literary, theatrical or film characters could not have been drawn and characterized the way we have, so to speak, bear in mind. Just think of \u00bbThe Great Gatsby\u00ab, James Bond or the elegant dandies in the comedies of Oscar Wilde. In our application, we therefore wanted to show an artist and art figure in a tailor-made suit: Max Raabe immediately said yes and sent a picture. That was great!\u00ab<\/p>\n

\"Schneider
Tailors at Henry Poole & Co,\u00a0 Savile Row in London, 1944<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In sync with the Savile Row<\/h2>\n

At about the same time as the application of \u00bbDie Herrenschneider\u00ab, the \u00bbSavile Row Bespoke Association\u00ab in England also submitted an application for an entry in the UNESCO list. \u00bbThat fits very well\u00ab says Sandro Du\u0308hnforth, \u00bbbecause if we both succeed getting into the race, there might even be a chance of making it onto the international list of intangible cultural heritage. But those are still dreams of the future. First of all, we have to be successful here in Germany.\u00ab And if that doesn’t work? \u00bbThen, of course, we’ll continue\u00ab is the spontaneous answer. \u00bbThe information we have gathered and the contacts we have made alone are worth their weight in gold. Furthermore, I think there is a realistic chance that we will at least be included in the nationwide selection list and thus have a good opportunity to go public and attract more attention to our craft, what is most important to us.\u00ab<\/p>\n

The quality seal<\/h2>\n

Another project of \u00bbDie Herrenschneider\u00ab also aims to distinguish made-to-measure clothing as a cultural asset of craftsmanship. It is a seal of quality that defines tailormade craftsmanship in the sense of \u00bbDie Herrenschneider\u00ab with five quality criteria and thus aims to establish this label as a promise of quality. One of the quality criteria is \u00bbrecognized men’s tailor\u00ab – a somewhat blurred formulation – Sandro Du\u0308hnforth specifies: \u00bbIt is important to us that the practical exercise of the profession, in fact can clearly be defined as a men’s tailor. This is what we mean with \u00bbapproved\u00ab – approved by colleagues and recognized by customers, as men’s tailor. We did not want to restrict this further. On the one hand, the profession of men’s tailor has an independent occupational title which has actually not existed at all since the reorganization of the Register of Craftsmen. On the other hand, colleagues from abroad come to us who have not completed a classic German tailoring training course, because there it does not exist at all, but they can demonstrate many years of experience and excellent know-how. This is one of the reasons why this issue is formulated so openly.\u00ab<\/p>\n

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Surrender to the minimum training allowance?<\/h2>\n

However, one criterion is completely missing from the quality seal, a point that got lot of emphasis when \u00bbDie Herrenschneider\u00ab was founded a good year ago: the training of young tailors as a genuine task of the companies. A \u00bbrebirth\u00ab of the men’s tailoring trade, which was expressly set as a goal, will not be possible without training. So why the omission of this central point? Surrender to the minimum training allowance? \u00bbMany colleagues have made it clear to us that training is no longer financially viable for them under the new conditions\u00ab argues Sandro Du\u0308hnforth. \u00bbSo we are facing the dilemma of not being able to accept new members if they do not train, even if they would be a great asset to us. This would also call into question our central point of \u00bbrebirth\u00ab of the men’s tailoring trade. On the other hand, we have to ensure high-quality training in any case. So the question arises: How can we provide such training – in whatever form – and at the same time relieve the companies? One option would be to set up a \u00bbHerrenschneider Academy\u00ab, which is currently still a project for the future that needs to be thoroughly thought through. At the moment, we are pleased that we have been able to welcome five new members since the foundation of \u00bbDie Herrenschneider\u00ab, further applications for membership are currently on the table. I think this growth rate is quite presentable considering the number of still existing men’s tailor companies in Germany.\u00ab<\/p>\n

The Intangible Cultural heritage of UNESCO in Germany<\/h2>\n

The nationwide directory of the Intangible Cultural Heritage illustrates by examples, which cultural traditions and forms of expression were and still are practised and passed on in Germany. The cultural forms included in the directory and their bearers stand for the creativity, innovative spirit and knowledge of our society. The Intangible Cultural Heritage List honors creative cultural forms and their precious experience. This attention should lead to the preservation, continuation and dynamic development of traditions which are practiced today in Germany by groups and communities. To get on the list, each federal state makes a preliminary selection and can forward up to four applications to the Standing Conference of Ministers of Education and Cultural Affairs. The nationwide list of proposals is reviewed and evaluated by a committee of experts at the German Commission for UNESCO. The Standing Conference of Ministers of Education and Cultural Affairs and the Federal Government Commissioner for Culture and the Media finally confirm the selection recommendations of the expert committee at the end of the process.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Falconry, charcoal burning, braiding and turnery – they all are on the UNESCO list of \u00bbIntangible Cultural Heritage in Germany\u00ab. Will the profession of men\u2019s tailoring soon be part of the UNESCO cultural heritage?

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