{"id":3496,"date":"2023-03-21T10:00:32","date_gmt":"2023-03-21T09:00:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=3496"},"modified":"2023-03-21T09:21:37","modified_gmt":"2023-03-21T08:21:37","slug":"sewing-bellow-pocket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/sewing-bellow-pocket\/","title":{"rendered":"Sewing Bellow Pocket"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_13779\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13779\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Blasebalgtaschen.png\" alt=\"Blasebalgtaschen auf dem Laufsteg\" width=\"1181\" height=\"1280\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Inspiration Runway: Big Bellow Pockets at Fendi and Balenciaga.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>The patched bellow pocket<\/strong> can appear elegant or sporty, there are no limits to the design. Whether simple with decorative seams, different quilting, sometimes round or squared, with button or zipper, with bar, flap, panels, placket or pleats, wherever it is attached, it enriches the hole look. Interesting is the bellows pocket in the different variations, for example as a cargo pocket with box pleat or as a voluminous sack pocket. Whether on trousers, on a dress, as a chest pocket on a jacket or as an additional pocket on a handbag: it can be sewn on almost anywhere. This decorative pocket can be sewn with any fabric. If you prefer a voluminous shape, however, you should use a solid fabric or sew in an insert.\u00a0The bellow pocket is a good piece to learn how to sew, so it often has to be sewn as a test of the acquired qualifications during the training as a tailor, e.g. for intermediate examinations. Helpful tips as well as instructions for constructing the pattern and sewing the pocket can be found in the following article.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Content<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><strong><a href=\"#Blasebalgtasche\">Instruction &#8211; Classic Bellow Pocket<\/a><\/strong><\/strong><\/li>\n<li><strong><strong><a href=\"#Blasebalgstil\">Instruction &#8211; Bellow Style Pocket\u00a0<\/a><\/strong><\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2 id=\"Blasebalgtasche\">Instruction &#8211; Classic Bellow Pocket<\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3501 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/BellowsPocket.png\" alt=\"Pattern for bellow pocket\" width=\"886\" height=\"773\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/BellowsPocket.png 886w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/BellowsPocket-300x262.png 300w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/BellowsPocket-768x670.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/BellowsPocket-255x222.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/BellowsPocket-360x314.png 360w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 886px) 100vw, 886px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Constructing the pattern<\/h3>\n<p>The pocket lies flat on the garment, is very decorative, but time-consuming and only when used does the whole charm come into its own. During the pattern construction the finished corners must fit exactly on each other. This requires a special accuracy in drawing and cutting if the bag shape is widened at the bottom. We charge 1 cm for the seam allowance for stitching on the pocket, and 0.5 cm for the corners. The envelope at the pocket opening can be different. This is reinforced and trimmed with a material-suitable insert.<\/p>\n<h3>Sewing instruction<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3223 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Blasebalgtasche-naehen_02.jpg\" alt=\"Die Verarbeitung, das N\u00e4hen einer Blasebalgtasche ist zu sehen.\" width=\"576\" height=\"770\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The half pocket part clearly shows the working steps. Cut in inner corners, cut back outer corners.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3224 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Blasebalgtasche-naehen_03.jpg\" alt=\"Die Verarbeitung, das N\u00e4hen einer Blasebalgtasche ist zu sehen. Hier die Briefecke.\" width=\"648\" height=\"367\" \/><\/p>\n<p>On the bottom side of the pocket you can see the ironed folds, the ironed seam and the ironed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3225 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Blasebalgtasche-naehen_04.jpg\" alt=\"Die Verarbeitung, das N\u00e4hen einer Blasebalgtasche ist zu sehen.\" width=\"645\" height=\"362\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The edges thus achieved must lie exactly on top of each other. The pleat contents are stitched together at the pocket opening.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3226 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Blasebalgtasche-naehen_05.jpg\" alt=\"Die Verarbeitung, das N\u00e4hen einer Blasebalgtasche ist zu sehen. Hier Schlaufe und Schnalle.\" width=\"830\" height=\"761\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The pocket is easier to sew for if the upper pleat fracture is stitched narrow-edged before processing. The inside cover covers the cut edges of the pleats. This way the pocket can be sewn on cleanly. At the pocket opening, cross-lock 0.5 cm at each side.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3227 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Blasebalgtasche-naehen_06.jpg\" alt=\"Die Verarbeitung, das N\u00e4hen einer Blasebalgtasche ist zu sehen. Hier die fertige Tasche aus Stoff.\" width=\"515\" height=\"776\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The bag becomes even more attractive with a closable clasp or flap.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13778\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13778\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Blasebalgtaschen-naehen_Inspiration.png\" alt=\"Blasebalgtaschen auf dem Laufsteg\" width=\"1181\" height=\"1230\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Inspiration Runway: Bellow pockets at Hugo Boss and Anna Sui.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"Blasebalgtasche\">Instruction &#8211; Bellow Style Pocket<\/h2>\n<p>This pocket has a sporty character, is decorative and easy to sew. A quilted box pleat, a thread-straight strip of fabric attached around the shape of the bag and a flap make up the model.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3500 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/Patchpocket-Cargopocket.png\" alt=\"Pattern for patch pocket bellow style\" width=\"1584\" height=\"1154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/Patchpocket-Cargopocket.png 1584w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/Patchpocket-Cargopocket-300x219.png 300w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/Patchpocket-Cargopocket-768x560.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/Patchpocket-Cargopocket-1024x746.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/Patchpocket-Cargopocket-255x186.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/02\/Patchpocket-Cargopocket-360x262.png 360w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1584px) 100vw, 1584px\" \/><\/p>\n<h3>Constructing the pattern<\/h3>\n<p>Cut the pocket according to the drawing. The pattern is without flap and seam allowances.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Sewing instruction<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3232 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/tasche-naehen-im-Blasebalgstil_MuellerundSohn_02.jpg\" alt=\"Die fertig gen\u00e4hte Tasche im Blasebalgstil ist abgebildet.\" width=\"1137\" height=\"756\" \/><\/p>\n<p>First the box pleat is ironed in and double stitched, then stitched on at the cover and cut back. The cover at the upper edge and the side strip are fixed with a light interlining. The length of the thread-straight cut strip extends to the upper fold edge and has 0.8 cm seam allowance at each side. Join pocket section and side strip together and topstitch the seam allowance in a narrow-edged fashion.<\/p>\n<p>At the upper edge, place the side piece to form a pleat and sew the pleat contents together. The fold comes over it. This way the pocket is neatly closed on all sides. Press the side piece as wide as the seam (0.8 cm) and topstitch the bag in the shape shown. Cross-lock the top edge at the right and left side of the pocket approx. 0.5 cm wide. Secure the flap with a light interlining and topstitch with the same material in a folded position to match the box pleat. If the flap comes from a dividing seam, the sporty touch is attractively emphasised.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"The patch pocket can appear elegant or sporty, there are no limits to the design. Whether simple with decorative seams, different quilting, sometimes round or squared, with button or zipper, with bar, flap, panels, placket or pleats, wherever it is attached, it enriches the hole look. Interesting is the bellows pocket in the different variations, for example as a cargo pocket with box pleat or as a voluminous sack pocket.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":3502,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,34],"tags":[172,45,210,171],"class_list":["post-3496","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein","category-sewing","tag-flap-pocket","tag-patch-pocket","tag-side-pocket","tag-welt-pocket"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3496","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3496"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3496\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3506,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3496\/revisions\/3506"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3502"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3496"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3496"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3496"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}