{"id":2401,"date":"2022-10-16T08:00:34","date_gmt":"2022-10-16T06:00:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=2401"},"modified":"2022-09-28T12:15:37","modified_gmt":"2022-09-28T10:15:37","slug":"pattern-construction-plastron-shirt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/pattern-construction-plastron-shirt\/","title":{"rendered":"Pattern Construction Plastron Shirt"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_11287\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11287\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Beitragsbild_Vauthier_HCFS19_0761.jpg\" alt=\"Blusen mit Biesen-Plastron auf dem Laufsteg\" width=\"2953\" height=\"1665\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Inspiration Runway: Blusen by Vauthier, Franchi and Branquinho<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>White Plastron shirts<\/strong> for men`s suits have always been a styling tip.\u00a0Now the shirt with piping or frills on the chest has also conquered the catwalks of women&#8217;s fashion.<\/p>\n<h1>What is a Plastron?<\/h1>\n<p>The Plastron (French &#8220;front shirt&#8221;) is a bib, breast trim or insert on the shirt. This insert can be found on historical uniforms\u00a0 and traditional costumes. Originally the Plastron is a breast-covering form of the tie which was worn by men around 1860 and is still known today as the Ascot-Tie in riding clothing.<\/p>\n<p>Around 1900, a lingerie stand-up collar in women&#8217;s fashion was also called a plastron. This plastron later developed into a sewn-in or sewn-on insert on blouses and dresses, in fabric with decorations (such as tucks or frills). (from Reclams Mode &amp; Kost\u00fcm Lexikon by Ingrid Loschek). Today, the Plastron shirt can be found in men&#8217;s and women&#8217;s clothing.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_11291\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11291\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Dior_WHW18_1041.jpg\" alt=\"Blusen mit Biesen-Plastron auf dem Laufsteg\" width=\"2362\" height=\"1293\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Inspiration Runway: Blusen by Dior, Dice Kayek and Dolce &amp; Gabbana<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>This article is an excerpt from the book <a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/metric-patternmaking-for-dresses-and-blouses\/?preview_id=1054&amp;preview_nonce=18dcc6d43b&amp;_thumbnail_id=1101&amp;preview=true\"><strong>Metric Patternmaking for Dresses and Blouses<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<h1><div id=\"product-1054\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data  product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Download M. M\u00fcller &amp; Sohn - Book - Women - Metric Pattern Making - Dresses and Blouses\" data-product-sku=\"RD921026\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"116.80\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Reference books\/Womens apparel\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">PDF Download: Download M. M\u00fcller &amp; Sohn - Book - Women - Metric Pattern Making - Dresses and Blouses<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/metric-patternmaking-for-dresses-and-blouses\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/08\/Dresses-and-blouses-MuellerundSohn-Book-724x1024-255x361.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: PDF Download: Download M. M\u00fcller &amp; Sohn - Book - Women - Metric Pattern Making - Dresses and Blouses\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/08\/Dresses-and-blouses-MuellerundSohn-Book-724x1024-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/08\/Dresses-and-blouses-MuellerundSohn-Book-724x1024-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/08\/Dresses-and-blouses-MuellerundSohn-Book-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/08\/Dresses-and-blouses-MuellerundSohn-Book-724x1024-283x400.png 283w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/metric-patternmaking-for-dresses-and-blouses\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">116,80&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div><div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"1054\" data-my_post_id=\"2401\" role=\"button\"><\/div>\n\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/h1>\n<h1>Pattern Construction Plastron Shirt with Pintucks<\/h1>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11290 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Bluse_naehen_muellerSohn.png\" alt=\"Modezeichnung einer Bluse mit Biesen-Plastron\" width=\"886\" height=\"774\" \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">This long, loose-fitting blouse has a pleated, inserted bib, also called Plastron. Design the shape of the Plastron round, square, or pointed. The insert can have pintucks or pleats, either straight or slanted. The shirt might be worn With or without belt. The back might be cut longer than the front. Long side slits are another style element for this shirt design.<\/p>\n<h2>Pattern construction blouse<\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11293 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Schnittmuster_Bluse_muellerSohn.png\" alt=\"Schnittkonstruktion einer Bluse\" width=\"886\" height=\"656\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">\n<p class=\"p1\">Use a loose-fitting dress block and the sleeve. Draw the Plastron shape on the front pattern and relocate the bust dart to the Plastron seam (here 2.5 cm). Add 1.5 cm overlap and draw the front placket 3 cm wide.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Pattern construction plastron<\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11292\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Schnittmuster_1_Bluse_muellerSohn.png\" alt=\"Schnittkonstruktion einer Bluse\" width=\"886\" height=\"442\" \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Draft a rough cut pattern for the Plastron piece with pleats. Trace a copy of the Plastron on pare and add enough width to accommodate the pleat intakes and the seam allowance (here 6 pleats with 1 cm intake plus 1 cm seam allowance = 7 cm)<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Pattern construction dartless blouse with slanted pleats<\/h1>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11289 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Biesenbluse_naehen_MuellerSohn.png\" alt=\"Schnittkonstruktion einer Bluse\" width=\"886\" height=\"528\" \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Use the dartless blouse block as a foundation for the blouse with slanted pleats. The asymmetrical pleats are drafted over the entire front pattern.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Sewing pintucks<\/h1>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-326 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/06\/a6.jpg\" alt=\"Anleitung zum Biesen n\u00e4hen\" width=\"673\" height=\"555\" \/><\/p>\n<p>You can read how to sew the pintucks on the blouse correctly in our article <strong>&gt; Biesen n\u00e4hen<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Further instructions for pattern construction and finished patterns for blouses and dresses can be found in our <a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">online shop.<\/a><\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"White Plastron shirts for men`s suits have always been a styling tip.\u00a0Now the shirt with piping or frills on the chest has also conquered the catwalks of women&#8217;s fashion.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":2402,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[188,187,180],"class_list":["post-2401","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein","tag-blouse-pattern","tag-pattern-construction","tag-sewing-ruffles"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2401","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2401"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2401\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5492,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2401\/revisions\/5492"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2402"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2401"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2401"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2401"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}