{"id":226,"date":"2022-05-29T08:00:25","date_gmt":"2022-05-29T06:00:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=226"},"modified":"2022-05-25T12:31:09","modified_gmt":"2022-05-25T10:31:09","slug":"pattern-construction-for-shirts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/pattern-construction-for-shirts\/","title":{"rendered":"Pattern Construction for Shirts"},"content":{"rendered":"<span class=\"ee-has-fotocredit aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-3441\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Hemden-naehen-Inspiration_MuellerundSohn.jpg\" alt=\"Zeigt drei M\u00e4nndermodels in wei\u00dfen Hemden.\" width=\"2129\" height=\"1287\" \/><span class=\"ee-fotocredit\">(Photo Credit: Catwalkpics)<\/span><\/span>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>This article shows one of the four shirts variations from our journal <strong>Rundschau for men 6-7.2015.<\/strong> Also the edition includes two Basic pattern blocks.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Basic Loose-Fitting Shirt Block<\/li>\n<li>Basic Shirt Block for the Athletic Figure<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Loose-Fitting Raglan Shirt &#8211; Design 6037<\/h3>\n<p>Template: Loose-Fitting Shirt Block<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3446\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Hemd-naehen-Model1_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung eines Hemdes.\" width=\"1567\" height=\"834\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>\u2022 topstitched Front Placket<br \/>\n\u2022 curved Hem<br \/>\n\u2022 chest Pockets with Slanted Corners<br \/>\n\u2022 cuffed Sleeve<br \/>\n\u2022 shirt Collar with Collar Stand<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Front and Back Pattern<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3458\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/weites-Raglanhemd_Schnitttechnik_Aermelanlage.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die Schnittkonstruktion eines Raglan Hemdes.\" width=\"1549\" height=\"1609\" \/>On the front and back pattern, blend the transition of the Raglan seam and the armhole at the armhole notch. Add 1.5 cm overlap parallel to the centre front for the 3-cm wide buttonstand. Mark the stitching line 1.5 cm away from the centre front on the front pattern. Mirror the buttonstand and the neckline shape twice over the front edge.<\/p>\n<p>Press the buttonstand to the wrong side and topstitch the buttonstand. Mark the upper button position 4 cm below the neck line and mark the remaining buttons 10.5 cm apart. Plot the patch pocket as shown in the illustration. Mark the grainline parallel to the front edge and along the centre back.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Sleeve<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3459\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/weites-Raglanhemd_Schnitttechnik_Kragen.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die Schnittkonstruktion eines Raglan Hemdes. Hier der \u00c4rmel.\" width=\"1771\" height=\"1577\" \/>Join the copied sleeve pieces together at the sleeve fold. Blend the seam transition at the neckline. Blend the Raglan seams at the armhole notches. The basic sleeve pattern is already shortened for the sleeve cuff. Mark two pleats with 2.5 cm intake. Mark the slit 12 cm long. Mark the grainline along the centre line. Plot the cuff 6 cm wide with the measured cuff length and add the overlap and underlap as shown in the illustration.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Collar<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3457\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/weites-Raglanhemd_Schnitttechnik_Aermel.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die Schnittkonstruktion eines Raglan Hemdes. Hier der Kragen.\" width=\"1294\" height=\"635\" \/><\/p>\n<p>On a horizontal baseline measure \u00bd of the neckline length and square up at the centre front and back. At the centre back measure first 0.7 cm for the shape of the stand and then 3.2 cm for the collar stand upward. Then measure 1.2 cm for the roundness of the collar and 4.2\u00a0cm for the collar width. Draw short perpendicular lines to the left from all points. Add 1.5 cm overlap at the centre front for the buttonstand. Square up 1.3 cm for the collar stand.<\/p>\n<p>Draw the collar line over the \u00bc-point of the baseline as shown in the illustration. Square up for the centre front of the collar stand and draw the collar stand 2.7 cm wide. Measure the collar width from the centre front upward and square out 1.5 cm to the left. Plot the collar shape according to the illustration. Mark the position for the buttonhole. Measure and compare the collar line and the neckline. Adjust the collar length at the centre back if necessary.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Slim-Fit Raglan Shirt\u00a0\u2013 Design 6038<\/h3>\n<p>Template: Slim-Fitting Shirt Block, Size 50 (Neck size 40)<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3447\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Hemd-naehen-Model2_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung eines Hemdes.\" width=\"1457\" height=\"818\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\u2022 concealed Front Placket<br \/>\n\u2022 attached Waistband<br \/>\n\u2022 back Waist Darts<br \/>\n\u2022 sleeve with wide Cuff<br \/>\n\u2022 shoulder Dart<br \/>\n\u2022 convertible Collar with Collar Stand<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Shirt for the Athletic Figure\u00a0\u2013 Design 6035<\/h3>\n<p>Template: Basic Shirt Block for the Athletic Figure Size 50<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3448\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Hemd-naehen-Model-3_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung eines Hemdes.\" width=\"1534\" height=\"865\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\u2022 pleated Front Placket<br \/>\n\u2022 curved Hem<br \/>\n\u2022 chest Patch Pocket<br \/>\n\u2022 cuffed Sleeve<br \/>\n\u2022 shirt Collar with Collar Stand<br \/>\n\u2022 front and Back Waist Darts<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Shirt with Style Seams\u00a0\u2013 Design 6039<\/h3>\n<p>Template: Slim-Fitting Shirt Block, Size 50 (Neck size 40)<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3449\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Hemd-naehen-Model-4_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung eines Hemdes.\" width=\"1491\" height=\"837\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\u2022 Pleated Front Placket<br \/>\n\u2022 Front and Back Style Seams<br \/>\n\u2022 Double-Layered Front Panel<br \/>\n\u2022 Sleeve with wide Cuff<br \/>\n\u2022 Spread Collar<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This article shows one of the four shirts variations from our journal Herrenrundschau 6-7.2015. Also the edition includes two Basic pattern blocks.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":273,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,31,28],"tags":[92,187,203,132,43],"class_list":["post-226","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein","category-men-tailoring","category-pattern-construction","tag-outerwear-for-men","tag-pattern-construction","tag-shirt-pattern","tag-types-of-collars","tag-types-of-sleeves"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/226","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=226"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/226\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5257,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/226\/revisions\/5257"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/273"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=226"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=226"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=226"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}