{"id":2040,"date":"2023-10-23T08:00:18","date_gmt":"2023-10-23T06:00:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=2040"},"modified":"2023-10-23T08:58:14","modified_gmt":"2023-10-23T06:58:14","slug":"the-classic-tailcoat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/the-classic-tailcoat\/","title":{"rendered":"The classic Tailcoat"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9119 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Frack-naehen_MuellerundSohn-Beitrag.png\" alt=\"Zu sehen ist der korrekte Frack\" width=\"1597\" height=\"1913\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This article from Mastertailor Manfred Seidl is an excerpt from the book\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/shop\/haka-meisterschneider\/\">HAKA Meisterschneider<\/a><\/p>\n<p>When designing and fitting the tailcoat suit, it should be noted that in addition to the fit, all the parts harmonize with each other: The hem of the vest (aka. waistcoat) must align with the hem of the tailcoat. The vest or tailcoat shall be shortened or lengthened appropriatly. It is also important to ensure that the trousers do not flash out from the waistcoat cutout, therefore the trousers are cut too high (or the waistcoat is cut too long). The edge of the tail is right when it touches the side seam of the trousers, therefore an intervention in the trouser pocket is possible. The edge of the tail can be varied if necessary, it can also continue into the torso part behind the dart.<\/p>\n<div id=\"product-3962\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data issue-product product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Schnittmuster HAKA Frack und Frackweste\" data-product-sku=\"RBMS5036\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"28.00\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Jackets &amp; Coats\/Mens apparel\/Patterns\" data-product-variant=\"print\/digital\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">Pattern Dress Coat and Dress Vest<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-dress-coat-and-dress-vest\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"127\" height=\"180\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1-127x180.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: Pattern Dress Coat and Dress Vest\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1-127x180.png 127w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1-283x400.png 283w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/06\/201905Frack-frackweste-naehen_MuellerundSohn-1.png 1240w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 127px) 100vw, 127px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-dress-coat-and-dress-vest\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">Size 46 to 56<\/p>\t\t\t<div class=\"choose-product-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<ul class=\"grid-x tab-list\" role=\"tablist\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product active\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-digital\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Download<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-download\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-standard\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Print Version<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-book\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/ul>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"panels-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-digital\" id=\"type-digital\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">22,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-standard hide\" id=\"type-standard\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de \">28,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div>\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<!-- the ajax button function will override both buttons here: -->\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-digital\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"3962\" data-my_post_id=\"2040\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-standard hide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"3962\" data-my_post_id=\"2040\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<figure id=\"attachment_9118\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9118\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Frack-naehen_MuellerundSohn_Inspiration.jpg\" alt=\"Das Bild zeigt Modelles eines Frack auf dem Laufsteg\" width=\"1276\" height=\"1145\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Runway Inspiration: Dior &amp; Gucci<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>The tailcoat suit contains of:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Tailcoat, black with silk facing on the lapel.<\/li>\n<li>Tailcoat trousers, made of the same fabric as the tailcoat with two galon stripes at the side seam.<\/li>\n<li>Tailcoat vest, made of white cotton <em>piqu\u00e9<\/em> (backless).<\/li>\n<li>Dress shirt with reinforced\/starched front insert, stand-up collar with short points.<\/li>\n<li>Bow tie, \u201cButterfly\u201d style<\/li>\n<li>Dress coat with tippet\/cape.<\/li>\n<li>Pocket watch, attached to a loop at the waistband on the left side.<\/li>\n<li>Pumps with grosgrain ribbon bow, conditionally patent leather shoes.<\/li>\n<li>Top hat<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure id=\"attachment_9117\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9117\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Frack-naehen_MuellerundSohn_Inspiration_Catwalk.jpg\" alt=\"Das Bild zeigt Modelles eines Frack auf dem Laufsteg\" width=\"1276\" height=\"946\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Runway Inspiration: Dolce &amp; Gabbana<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>The first tailcoat fitting:<\/h2>\n<p>For shaping the tailcoat, which is especially tailored to the waist, it is the most important step during the construction process. The tailcoat has a front lining like a jacket, to emphasize and shape the shoulder and chest area. The following steps in the construction process play a crucial role in the first sample:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The shaping (= applying shape to the pattern pieces, stretching and easing in using an iron)<\/li>\n<li>The fabrication of the front interfacing<\/li>\n<li>The concealment (= connecting the front insert with the outer fabric)<\/li>\n<li>The preparation of the tails<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9123 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Dressur_Insta-02.png\" alt=\"Schnitt-Teile eines Fracks\" width=\"1772\" height=\"1772\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>The shaping\/molding<\/h2>\n<p>The molding is a process of applying a certain form to the individual pattern pieces such as stretching or easing in the fabric using an iron before it is further processed. The shaping\/molding adds a perfect look and supports the fit of the garment. Both parts lie right sides together on top of each other and are successively shaped from both sides. The molding must be exaggerated, because the fabric goes back again. The manipulated pattern pieces must be able to set and completely cool off before further processing.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9122 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Dressur_Insta-01.png\" alt=\"Dressur eines Fracks\" width=\"1772\" height=\"1772\" \/><\/p>\n<h2>Sewing Pattern Tailcoat<\/h2>\n<p>You can find an overview of the pattern tailcoat in the article<a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/allgemein\/schnittmuster-frack\/?preview_id=9750&amp;preview_nonce=77613a72cb&amp;post_format=standard&amp;_thumbnail_id=9119&amp;preview=true\"><strong> &gt; Schnittmuster Frack<\/strong><\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"When designing and fitting the classic tailcoat suit, it is important to take notice of not only the fit but also that all parts harmonize with each other. From the fitting, to shaping, to the finished tailcoat: How a tailcoat is made you find out here.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":2041,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,21,31,28,34],"tags":[196,192,92],"class_list":["post-2040","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein","category-knowledge","category-men-tailoring","category-pattern-construction","category-sewing","tag-jacket-pattern","tag-mens-sewing-patterns","tag-outerwear-for-men"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2040","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2040"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2040\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2340,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2040\/revisions\/2340"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2041"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2040"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2040"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2040"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}