{"id":198,"date":"2022-07-26T08:00:22","date_gmt":"2022-07-26T06:00:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=198"},"modified":"2022-07-19T12:54:34","modified_gmt":"2022-07-19T10:54:34","slug":"pinching-shaping-with-dart-manipulation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/allgemein\/pinching-shaping-with-dart-manipulation\/","title":{"rendered":"Pinching &#8211; Shaping with Dart Manipulation"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2819 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Abnaeherverlegung_kneifen_Kleider_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die verschiedene technische Zeichnungen von Kleider mit Abn\u00e4her Verlegung.\" width=\"1649\" height=\"2040\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>On the subject of \u201cPinching\u201d, we introduce more variations (see also DR10\/2009) for dart manipulation. We show designs with crosswise seams, slanting seams, asymmetric seams and reduced darts. Those who master the technique of \u201cPinching\u201d can achieve a perfect fit for any style.<\/p>\n<p>We give you an insight into the pattern construction presenting you one variation. You find the complete instruction in our journal <strong>Rundschau for women 1\/2011.\u00a0<\/strong>You can order this issue via our customer service:\u00a0<strong><a href=\"mailto:kundenservice@ebnermedia.de\">kundenservice@ebnermedia.de<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Pinching &#8211; Variation 1<\/h2>\n<p>Template: Basic Dress Pattern in Size 40<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2822 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_01_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung von einem Kleid mit Abn\u00e4herverlegungen.\" width=\"495\" height=\"502\" \/><\/p>\n<h4><\/h4>\n<h3><strong>Front and back pattern<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2820 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_01_Kleidergrundschnitt_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Zeichnung zeigt die Schnittkonstruktion eines Kleides mit Abn\u00e4herverlegung.\" width=\"1139\" height=\"2012\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Use a basic dress pattern in size 40 as the\u00a0 for the pattern development (see measurement chart DR 10\/2009). Indicate the skirt length with 55 cm below the waist. The design shows slanted seam lines in the front and a Broad waistband in the back. Mirror the front pattern and draw the seam lines according to the design.<\/p>\n<p>Mark the darts as pinching amounts. The shaped waist darts are drawn as straight lines for easier manipulation. Close the bust dart temporarily for drawing the neckline. Draw cutting lines from the pinching amounts to the side seams. Mark the back shoulder dart as pinching amount. Draw the back neckline over the dart endpoint. Shift the back waist dart to the side and mark the intake as pinching amount.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2821 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_01_Kleidergrundschnitt_MuellerundSohn_02.png\" alt=\"Die Zeichnung zeigt die Schnittkonstruktion eines Kleides mit Abn\u00e4herverlegung.\" width=\"644\" height=\"2011\" \/><\/p>\n<h4><\/h4>\n<h3><strong>Finished pattern pieces<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2823 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_01_MuellerundSohn_FertigeSchnittteile.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die fertigen Schnittteile eines Kleides mit Ab\u00e4herverlegung.\" width=\"1122\" height=\"1325\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Separate all pattern pieces. Slash from the side seams to the pinching amounts on the front and back pattern. Close the pinching amounts. The side seams overlap slightly at the waist and open at the hipline.<\/p>\n<p>Equalize the side seam length. Close the bust dart. Close the shoulder darts on the back pattern and blend the neckline. Slash from the back\u00a0armhole notch to the pinching amount of the upper back pattern and close the intake. Blend all seam lines. Blend the armhole curve. Mark the grainline.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Pinching &#8211; Variation 2<\/h2>\n<p>Template: Basic Dress Pattern in Size 40<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2826 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_02_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung von einem Kleid mit Abn\u00e4herverlegungen\" width=\"506\" height=\"511\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4><\/h4>\n<h3><b>Finished pattern pieces<\/b><\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2827 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_02_MuellerundSohn_FertigeSchnittteile.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die fertigen Schnittteile eines Kleides mit Ab\u00e4herverlegung.\" width=\"785\" height=\"1289\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Pinching &#8211; Variation 3<\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2829 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_03_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung von einem Kleid mit Abn\u00e4herverlegungen\" width=\"506\" height=\"509\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Pinching &#8211; Variation 4<\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2832 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_04_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung von einem Kleid mit Abn\u00e4herverlegungen\" width=\"508\" height=\"511\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Pinching &#8211; Variation 5<\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2835 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_05_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung von einem Kleid mit Abn\u00e4herverlegungen\" width=\"507\" height=\"510\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h2>Pinching &#8211; Variation 6<\/h2>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2838 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Kneifen_Variation_06_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Die Abbildung zeigt die technische Zeichnung von einem Kleid mit Abn\u00e4herverlegungen\" width=\"503\" height=\"515\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"product-2499\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data  product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Download Pattern Construction Women: Evening Dresses\" data-product-sku=\"RDDRS056\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"15.80\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Dresses &amp; Blouses\/Women\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">PDF Download: Pattern Making Evening Dresses<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/schnitt-technik-abendkleider\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/sewing-evening-dress-muellerundsohn-255x361.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: PDF Download: Pattern Making Evening Dresses\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/sewing-evening-dress-muellerundsohn-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/sewing-evening-dress-muellerundsohn-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/sewing-evening-dress-muellerundsohn-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/sewing-evening-dress-muellerundsohn-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/sewing-evening-dress-muellerundsohn-283x400.png 283w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/schnitt-technik-abendkleider\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of for different evening dresses.<\/p><div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">15,80&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div><div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"2499\" data-my_post_id=\"198\" role=\"button\"><\/div>\n\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p><strong>Further instructions and sewing patterns can be found in our<a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> onlineshop<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"On the subject of \u201cPinching\u201d, we introduce more variations (see also DR10\/2009) for dart manipulation. We show designs with crosswise seams, slanting seams, asymmetric seams and reduced darts. Those who master the technique of \u201cPinching\u201d can achieve a perfect fit for any style.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":199,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,28,30],"tags":[37,200,197,79,187],"class_list":["post-198","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-allgemein","category-pattern-construction","category-women-tailoring","tag-dart","tag-diy-patterns","tag-dress-pattern","tag-outerwear-for-women","tag-pattern-construction"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=198"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5346,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/198\/revisions\/5346"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/199"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=198"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=198"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=198"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}