{"id":1921,"date":"2023-11-26T08:00:50","date_gmt":"2023-11-26T07:00:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=1921"},"modified":"2023-11-20T11:58:53","modified_gmt":"2023-11-20T10:58:53","slug":"slimline-suit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/pattern-construction\/slimline-suit\/","title":{"rendered":"Slimline Suit"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_8035\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8035\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Slimfit-Anzug-schnitttechnik_Inspiration.jpg\" alt=\"Slimline Anz\u00fcge auf dem Laufsteg bei Dior und Varvatos\" width=\"1181\" height=\"1237\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Slimline suits on the Runway at Dior and Varvatos<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>A slim line gives the classic men&#8217;s suit<\/strong> a modern silhouette. The body-hugging fit can be worn in the office, as a formal wear or in casual-chic.<\/p>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 4\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<h2>Jacket with Shawl Collar<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 4\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p>Basic Pattern: Slim-Fit Jacket Block, Size 50<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8031 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Anzug-naehen-slimline_MuellerundSohn_Modell1.png\" alt=\"Sakko mit Schalkragen in Slimline\" width=\"1315\" height=\"851\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>One button<\/li>\n<li>Narrow shawl collar<\/li>\n<li>Double-welt pockets<\/li>\n<li>Chest pocket<\/li>\n<li>Side vents<\/li>\n<li>Length: 74cm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 1\">\n<div class=\"section\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h3>1 Design Pattern and Collar:<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-5530\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1.jpg\" alt=\"pattern for suit jacket with shawl lapel\" width=\"2041\" height=\"1913\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1.jpg 2041w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1-300x281.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1-1024x960.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1-768x720.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1-1536x1440.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1-255x239.jpg 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1-360x337.jpg 360w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Suit-shawl-collar-pattern-1-580x544.jpg 580w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2041px) 100vw, 2041px\" \/><\/p>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 4\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p>Mark the position of the closing button 1 cm above the waist line and add 1.3 cm overlap. Draw a guideline for the front edge perpendicular to the hem line. Draw the curved cut-away front as shown in the illustration. The guideline for the front edge does not have to meet the centre front at the hem. The angled construction is possible only if the abdomen width is up to 1 cm larger than the chest width.<\/p>\n<p>Extend the shoulder seam 2 cm to the left for the lapel construction and mark the position of the lapel break. Measure the back neckline for the construction of the felt under collar. Lengthen the lapel break line upward. Measure the determined back neckline minus 1 cm from the front neckline corner to the lapel break. From this point square out to the right and measure 1.2 cm for the collar roll and 2.5 cm for the collar stand. Draw the collar seam to the neckline. Draw the centre back perpendicular to the collar seam line. Plot the shawl collar and the lapel according to the illustration. Measure and compare the collar seam and the neckline. The collar seam should be approximately 1 cm shorter than the neckline, since the collar gets longer when steam-pressed into shape.<\/p>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 4\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p>Mark the welt pockets and the chest pocket according to the illustration. Mark the side vents. Draw a horizontal line from the pocket to the back side seam and mark the length of the side vents 2 cm below this line. Draw the hip curves straight for the vent fold and extend the hem 0.8 cm at the vent fold. Draw the vent fold 4 cm wide. Draw the vent underlap 4 cm wide at the upper edge and 5 cm wide at the hem. Shorten the underlap to prevent showing at the hem.<\/p>\n<p>Mark the grainlines on the side panel and on the back pattern perpendicular to the hemlines. On the front pattern, mark the grainline along the dart middle line.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<figure id=\"attachment_8036\"  class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8036\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Slimfit-Anzug-schnitttechnik_Inspiration2.jpg\" alt=\"Slimline Anz\u00fcge auf dem Laufsteg bei Dolce &amp; Gabbana\" width=\"1181\" height=\"902\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-text\">Auch Dolce &amp; Gabbana setzt auf Slimline.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h3>2 Sleeve<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-5526\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie.jpg\" alt=\"Sleeve pattern of slimline suit for men\" width=\"1654\" height=\"1367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie.jpg 1654w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie-300x248.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie-1024x846.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie-768x635.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie-1536x1269.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie-255x211.jpg 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie-360x298.jpg 360w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2022\/10\/Slimline-Suit-Sleeve-pattern-Kopie-580x479.jpg 580w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1654px) 100vw, 1654px\" \/><\/p>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 5\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p>Determine the cap ease. The cap ease should amount 5 to 8 % for industrial manufacturing and 8 to 10 % for a tailored jacket. Slash from the sleeve cap to the hemline and increase or decrease the ease by spreading or overlapping the sleeve pieces. Mark the sleeve vent 11 cm long for four buttonholes. Draft the overlap and underlap. Mark the button positions. Mark the grainline perpendicular to the elbow line.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"product-1053\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data  product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Download Book Men Fundamentals Menswear\" data-product-sku=\"RDHRS001\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"88.00\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Mens apparel\/Reference books\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">PDF Download: Download Book Men Fundamentals Menswear<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/fundamentals-menswear\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn-255x361.jpg\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: PDF Download: Download Book Men Fundamentals Menswear\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn-255x361.jpg 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn-212x300.jpg 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn-768x1086.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn-724x1024.jpg 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn-283x400.jpg 283w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn-452x640.jpg 452w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/09\/FundamentalsMenswear-buch-muellerundsohn.jpg 1575w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/fundamentals-menswear\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">88,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div><div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"1053\" data-my_post_id=\"1921\" role=\"button\"><\/div>\n\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 5\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p><strong>Basic Pattern, the Longjacket\u00a0pointed lapel, the low crotch pleated pants\u00a0<span lang=\"en\">and many more pattern cutting constructions for men`s wear<\/span>\u00a0can be found in the reference book\u00a0 <i><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/fundamentals-menswear\/\">Fundamentals Menswear Pattern Making<\/a>.<\/i><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Longjacket\u00a0pointed lapel<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 5\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p>Basic Pattern: Slim-Fit Jacket Block, Size 50<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8033 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/12\/sakko-naehen-slimline_MuellerundSohn_Modell2.png\" alt=\"Longsakko mit Spitzfasson in slimline\" width=\"1326\" height=\"986\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Two buttons<\/li>\n<li>Narrow pointed lapel<\/li>\n<li>Frankfurt pockets<\/li>\n<li>Chest pocket<\/li>\n<li>Centered back vent<\/li>\n<li>Length: 84cm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 7\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<h2>Pleated Trousers<\/h2>\n<p>Basic Pattern: Pleated Slim-Fit Trouser Block, Size 50<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8032 alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/12\/anzugshose-naehen-slimline_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Bundfaltenhose in Slimline und Low Crotch\" width=\"975\" height=\"1040\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Low crotch<\/li>\n<li>Regular waist<\/li>\n<li>Two front pleats<\/li>\n<li>Wide waistband<\/li>\n<li>Double-welt pockets<\/li>\n<li>Welt back pockets<\/li>\n<li>Seven belt loops<\/li>\n<li>Hem width: 36cm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div id=\"product-2501\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data  product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Download Pattern Construction Men: Suit Jackets\" data-product-sku=\"RDHRS012\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"15.80\" data-product-shipping=\"0\" data-product-category=\"Downloads\/Jackets &amp; Coats\/Men\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">PDF Download: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-making-suit-jackets-for-men\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"255\" height=\"361\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-255x361.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: PDF Download: Pattern Making Suit Jackets for Men\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/09\/jacket-muellerundsohn-283x400.png 283w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-making-suit-jackets-for-men\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.<\/p><div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">15,80&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-delivery\"><\/div><div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"2501\" data-my_post_id=\"1921\" role=\"button\"><\/div>\n\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p><strong>Further instructions for pattern construction and patterns for sewing men&#8217;s suits can be found in our online shop. <\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"A slim line gives the classic men&#8217;s suit a modern silhouette. The body-hugging cut can be worn in the office, as a formal wear or in casual-chic.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":1922,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[31,28],"tags":[196,192,92,67,132],"class_list":["post-1921","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-men-tailoring","category-pattern-construction","tag-jacket-pattern","tag-mens-sewing-patterns","tag-outerwear-for-men","tag-pleated-pants","tag-types-of-collars"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1921","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1921"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1921\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2262,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1921\/revisions\/2262"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1922"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1921"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1921"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1921"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}