{"id":1716,"date":"2022-10-18T08:00:44","date_gmt":"2022-10-18T06:00:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/?p=1716"},"modified":"2022-09-28T12:10:45","modified_gmt":"2022-09-28T10:10:45","slug":"cutting-art-of-the-1950s-neckline-shapes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/pattern-construction\/cutting-art-of-the-1950s-neckline-shapes\/","title":{"rendered":"Dresses of the 50s \u2013 Neckline Shapes"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<span class=\"ee-has-fotocredit alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-full wp-image-7425\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/50erJahre_Kragen_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"Ausschnittl\u00f6sungen der 50er Jahre\" width=\"945\" height=\"1834\" \/><span class=\"ee-fotocredit\">(Photo Credit: Rundschauverlag)<\/span><\/span>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Particularly in the 50s, very body-focused feminine dresses<\/strong> were created that showed ingenuity and originality of vintage fashion in every detail. Dresses of the 50s are wonderfully feminine. After the arduous war years, the lady longed for elegance and luxury. Now she wore wide skirts and tight-fitting blouses with elaborately crafted necklines. The waisted costume and the cocktail dress enjoyed great popularity. For evening dresses in A-Line, elegant dresses in the New Look or swing dresses with petticoat, special technical details were always sought to underline the feminine line of vintage dresses. Whether on the international catwalks or with the Rockabilly ladies: Vintage fashion in the 50s style is in demand. No wonder because feminine curves simply look stunning in a tailor-made retro dress. The typical dress of this decade conjures up a sensual hourglass silhouette: a narrow waist, round hips and a sumptuous neckline. Icons of the time were Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe. Graphic patterns like polka dots or stripes and accessories like hats, bags and pumps in matching colours match the perfect Fifties Vintage collection.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h5><span class=\"ee-has-fotocredit alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-7655 \" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Ausschnittformen-50erJahre-Vintage.jpg\" alt=\"Runway-Modell von Lena Hoschek, Ulyana Sergeenko, Zac Posen inspiriert vom Stil der 50er Jahre.\" width=\"1181\" height=\"659\" \/><\/h5>\n<h5 id=\"tw-target-text\" class=\"tw-data-text tw-ta tw-text-small\"><span lang=\"en\">International fashion designers are inspired by the feminine elegance of the 50s and reinterpret the New Look. From left: Lena Hoschek, Ulyana Sergeenko, Zac Posen\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-size: 16px\"><span class=\"ee-fotocredit\">(Photo Credit: \u00a9 CATWALKPIX.COM)<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/h5>\n<h6><\/h6>\n<h2>Neckline Shapes &#8211; Pattern Construction in the Style of the 50s<\/h2>\n<p>The original cut-out forms shown in this article date from the 1950s. With these ingenious patterns a simple dress gets a super retro upgrade.\u00a0The shown designs are developed by draping the front bodice onto the dress form to determine the shape better. The darts are draped directly on the dress form.<\/p>\n<p>All shown pattern constructions of\u00a0 neckline shapes can be found in the german-speaking book <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/shop\/historische-schnitte-dob\/\">Historische Schnitte DOB<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-7435 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Kragen-5-215x300.png\" alt=\"50er Jahre Ausschnittl\u00f6sung - Sternf\u00f6rmige F\u00e4ltchenlegung - Modeillustration\" width=\"215\" height=\"300\" \/><br \/>\n<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: left\">Neckline with star-shaped Pleats<\/h3>\n<p>This design shows a neckline with a star-shaped drape and a small attached collar. Shape the bust dart and the waist dart on the dress form and close them with tape. The draped moulage gives a three-dimensional model. Experience shows that a line on a three-dimensional shape looks different than a line on a flat surface.\u00a0Rotate the chest dart intake to the waist. The top is designed with a short drop shoulder sleeve as shown in the illustration.<\/p>\n<h4><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Dress &#8211; Front and Back Pattern<\/span><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-7484 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Ausschnitt-naehen_Faltenlegung_Vorder-Rueckenteil_MuellerundSohn.png\" alt=\"50er Jahre Ausschnittl\u00f6sung - Schnitttechnik - Sternf\u00f6rmige F\u00e4ltchenlegung - Vorder- und R\u00fcckenteil\" width=\"1653\" height=\"1195\" \/><\/h4>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 8\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<ul>\n<li>Take the moulage off the dress form and open the waist dart. Leave the bust dart taped and closed.<\/li>\n<li>Mark the neckline shape at the centre front 5 cm below the chest line.<\/li>\n<li>Lower the neckline 4 cm at the front and back shoulder. Lower the neckline 2 cm at the centre back.<\/li>\n<li>Draw the neckline shape according to the illustration. Mark the cutting lines for the pleats.<\/li>\n<li>Draw the collar piece 3 cm wide as shown.<\/li>\n<li>Mark a cutting line to the bust point Bt.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<h4><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Finished Pattern Pieces<\/span><\/h4>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 8\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7427\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Ausschnitt-naehen_Faltenlegung_MuellerundSohn_Schnittteile.png\" alt=\"50er Jahre Ausschnittl\u00f6sung - Sternf\u00f6rmige F\u00e4ltchenlegung - Schnittkonstruktion - Schnittfertige Teile\" width=\"1545\" height=\"989\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Open the cutting lines on the front panel.\u00a0Spread the pleats 1 cm each at the shoulder seam and 4 cm to 5 cm each at the centre front.\u00a0Blend the seam transitions and mark the grainline.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 8\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-7503 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Kragen-12-207x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"207\" height=\"300\" \/><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: left\">Neckline with draped Lapel collar<\/h3>\n<p>This design is particularly sophisticated in terms of draping technique. The lapel collar results from the fullness of the bodice. The chest and waist darts are relocated to the shoulder and folded into one big pleat that shapes the lapel. The pleat depth is sewn in lapel shape and the collar is cut in one with the shoulder.<\/p>\n<h3><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Dress &#8211; Front and Back Pattern<\/span><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-7516 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Reverskragen-naehen_MuellerundSohn_Schnitttechnik-1.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1778\" height=\"1161\" \/><\/h3>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 8\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Use the front bodice of a basic dress block in size 40 as a template. Divide the bust dart intake in half and relocate it to two bust darts. Prepare the front bodice as follows. Draw a guideline from the neck point to the centre front for the stand-up collar. Square up 2 cm at the shoulder for the collar height. Mark the collar 4 cm wide at the centre front and draw the stand-up collar as shown in the illustration. <\/span><\/li>\n<li><span lang=\"EN-CA\">On the waist line, measure 2 cm from the centre front to the right and draw a line to the collar. Mark half of the dart intake on the first dart (here 2 cm). Mark the front bust depth at the bust point level (Btl) and measure 4.5 cm at the shoulder for the bust dart position. Mark the second waist dart 5 cm away from the first one and connect the dart to the relocated bust dart. Draw the bust dart and the waist dart to the bust point (Bt2). Add the collar to the back neckline. Draw a guideline from the neck point to the centre back. Square up 2 cm at the shoulder for the collar and lengthen the centre back 2.5 cm for the collar height at the centre back. Draw the collar shape onto the back pattern as shown in the illustration.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<h4><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Design Development Front Pattern<\/span><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Cut from the collar to the bust point (Btl). Close the waist darts and rotate the dart intakes to the bust darts. Mark the bust darts as pleats. Trace a copy of the back collar on the back pattern and place it on the front pattern as shown in the illustration. Draw the stylelines for the faux lapel. The front bust dart leg is the lapel break. The lapel is folded and sewn at this line. Draw the lapel shape as shown. <\/span><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Draw\u00a0<\/span><span lang=\"EN-CA\">the\u00a0front\u00a0edge\u00a0of\u00a0the\u00a0lapel\u00a0exactlyto the break line and draw the lapel notch <span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">until\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">just\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">before\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">the\u00a0<\/span>pleat centre. <span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">For<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">the<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">collar,<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">mirror<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">the<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">collar<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">shape <\/span>over <span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">the\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">break line\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">and\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">draw the collar\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">up\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">to\u00a0<\/span>the <span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">shoulder\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"ts-alignment-element\">seam.<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-7520\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Reverskragen-naehen_MuellerundSohn_Schnitttechnik_Aermel-1-636x1024.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"483\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4>One-piece Sleeve<\/h4>\n<div class=\"page\" title=\"Page 8\">\n<ul>\n<li><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Use a narrow one-piece sleeve pattern as a template. Draw a cutting line for relocating the elbow dart.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4><span lang=\"EN-CA\">Finished Pattern Pieces<\/span><\/h4>\n<h3><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7521\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Reverskragen-naehen_MuellerundSohn_Schnitttechnik_Schnittteile-1.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1964\" height=\"1251\" \/><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Separate all pattern pieces and complete overlapping areas. Copy the front and back facing. Rotate and shorten the elbow dart on the sleeve pattern. Mark the grainlines.<\/li>\n<li>Finish the faux lapel collar as follows:\u00a0Fold the front panel right sides together over the lapel break line (left dart leg of the bust dart). With the help of a prepared drawing template, draw the lapel shape on the wrong side of the fabric and sew the lapel and collar edge accordingly. Cut back the pleat intake up to the seam allowance and turn the lapel to the right side. Close the pleat which is hidden now under the lapel.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"product-3732\" class=\"checkout-widget product-data issue-product product-widget-container grid-x\" role=\"article\" data-product-name=\"Schnittmuster DOB Hemdblusenkleider\" data-product-sku=\"RXMS200006\" data-product-context=\"checkout-widget\" data-product-price=\"28.00\" data-product-shipping=\"Two dresses in sizes 36 to 46\" data-product-category=\"Dresses &amp; Blouses\/Patterns\/Womens apparel\" data-product-variant=\"print\/digital\" data-product-brand=\"M.Mueller &amp; Sohn\" ><div class=\"cell small-12 product-headline-container\"><div class=\"h2 product-headline\">Pattern Shirt Blouse Dresses<\/div><\/div><div class=\"product-thumbnail-container cell small-12 medium-4\" ><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-shirt-blouse-dresses\/\"><div class=\"product-thumbnail-wrapper\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"127\" height=\"180\" src=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1-127x180.png\" class=\"product-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Product: Pattern Shirt Blouse Dresses\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1-127x180.png 127w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1-768x1086.png 768w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1-283x400.png 283w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1-255x361.png 255w, https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/app\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2020\/03\/202003hemdblusenkleider-1.png 1240w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 127px) 100vw, 127px\" \/><\/div><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/pattern-shirt-blouse-dresses\/\" class=\"product-link\">Show Product Details<\/a><\/div><div class=\"product-content cell small-12 medium-8\"><p class=\"product-description\">The pattern shirt blouse dresses contains two dresses in sizes 36 to 46.<\/p>\t\t\t<div class=\"choose-product-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<ul class=\"grid-x tab-list\" role=\"tablist\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product active\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-digital\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Download<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-download\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"cell small-6 choose-product\" role=\"tab\" data-tab-id=\"type-standard\" title=\"Please Choose\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span class=\"tab-label\">Print Version<\/span><i class=\"fas fa-book\"><\/i>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/ul>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"panels-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-digital\" id=\"type-digital\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de price-download\">22,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"tab-content type-standard hide\" id=\"type-standard\" role=\"tabpanel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-prices\">\n<div class=\"price-de \">28,00&nbsp;\u20ac<\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t \t<div class=\"product-delivery\"><div class=\"product-delivery-time\">Delivery Time: 2-3 working days<\/div><\/div>\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"buy-now-button-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<!-- the ajax button function will override both buttons here: -->\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-digital\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"3732\" data-my_post_id=\"1716\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button-container type-standard hide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"product-button\" data-product_id=\"3732\" data-my_post_id=\"1716\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ebnermedia.de\/ebv\/shop-agb\/\" class=\"toc-link\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Terms And Conditions\">TOC<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p><strong>Further pattern instructions and patterns for sewing vintage dresses can be found in our <a href=\"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/shop\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">online shop<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Particularly in the 50s, very body-focused feminine dresses were created that showed ingenuity and originality of vintage fashion in every detail. Dresses of the 50s are wonderfully feminine. The cut-out forms of this article are from these years.<p class=\"read-further-link\">Continue Reading<\/p>","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":1839,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,272,30],"tags":[37,197,79,46,245,236],"class_list":["post-1716","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-pattern-construction","category-vintage","category-women-tailoring","tag-dart","tag-dress-pattern","tag-outerwear-for-women","tag-types-of-necklines","tag-vintage","tag-vintage-sewing-patterns"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1716"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5491,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716\/revisions\/5491"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1839"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1716"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1716"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.muellerundsohn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1716"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}