Pattern Construction for Pleat Front Trousers
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(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)
The trouser silhouette is again wider and avantgarde designers play creatively with front pleats, wide leg shapes and trouser lengths. The length is shorter and the new 3/4-length or the folded-up hem evoke a summertime look. The following designs are interpretations of a modern minimalistic style and at the same time, show a fashionable silhouette in playful widths. Light, flowing fabrics are best for the new styles.
This article shows you the pattern construction of one of the four versions you can find in our professional Journal Rundschau for men 4.2017. In addition this edition includes the Basic Pleat Front Trouser Block. For orders please contact our customer service: kundenservice@ebnermedia.de
Variant 1 – 3/4 Trousers with Yokes (Modell 3062)
Template: Basic Pleat Front Trouser Block
Design Pattern
Shorten the length 15 cm. Extend the width at the shortened hem 2 cm each side and 1 cm at the knee. Draw the new sideseam and inseam. Mark the hem stitching line 5 cm wide. Lower the waist 1 cm to make up for the wide waistband. Indicate the zipper length of 16 cm and mark the topstitching for the front fly 3.3 cm wide. Draw the yoke lines on the front and back pattern. Close the dart and pleat intakes on the front and back yoke pattern and blend the seamlines. Extend the back yoke seam 0.5 cm at the sideseam and at the centre back. Draw the new seamlines.
Measure the back yoke seam and measure the remaining dart intake on the back pattern. Equalize the seamlines by taking away the remaining extra length (max. 0.7 cm) at the sideseam. Draw the new hip curve as shown. Draw the front and back pockets as shown. Mark the grainlines along the creaselines. Plot the waistband 6 cm wide according to the waistline measurement. Mark two buttonholes at the front and the 4-cm wide belt loops as shown.
Front Pattern
To avoid marks on the fabric when Pressing the pleat, the pleat folds should meet in the middle of the pleat. The pleat backing has to be as deep as the pleat intake. Cut through both cutting lines from the pleats to the hem, spread each cutting line 2 cm and redraw the pleats.
Completion Front Pattern
To avoid marks on the fabric when Pressing the pleat, the pleat folds should meet in the middle of the pleat. The pleat backing has to be as deep as the pleat intake. Cut through both cutting lines from the pleats to the hem, spread each cutting line 2 cm and redraw the pleats.
Variant 2 – Trousers with Attached Waistband (Design 3059)
Template: Basic Pleat Front Trouser Block
Variant 3 – Trousers with Narrow Waistband (Design 3060)
Template: Pleated Slim-Fit Trouser Block
Variant 4 – Trousers with Overlapping Front (Design 3061)
Template: Pleated Slim-Fit Trouser Block
Order the pattern
You can order these pattern with model number 3059, 3060, 3061, 3062 in following sizes:
Normal sizes (44 – 60), stocky sizes (23- 31) und slim sizes (88-114). Price for each size: 20,- E (plus postage and package).
Sextl-Schnitt-Service, Hahndorfer Straße 6, 81377 Munich , E-Mail: alexander.6tl@gmx.de, www.sextl-schnitt-service.de
Further instructions for pattern construction and finished patterns for sewing men’s trousers can be found in our online shop.
